West
Alounak
This ever-reliable Iranian is a restaurant of two halves: there’s a
cosy area at the front that’s ideal for couples, and a more generous
space at the rear with large tables that are suitable for eating with
friends or family. Starters include variations on aubergines and
salads, but the mains are the main point of the place: succulent meat
kebabs are served with mounds of rice or bread and salad. Houmous,
olives and pickled chillis are brought to the table as a matter of
course.
Alounak, 10 Russell Gardens, W14 8EZ (020 7603 7645) Kensington Olympia
tube/rail. Open daily 12noon-12midnight. Unlicensed. BYO. Average ££.
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Food @ The Muse
Smart lunch spot
NEW Although chef Tom Kime is no longer at the helm, this small, white,
narrow restaurant inside a cool art gallery remains fashionably
eclectic in its style and vision. At dinner it can be pricey, but the
weekend brunch and lunch are a steal: Mediterranean ingredients like
olives, figs, almonds, goat’s cheese and Spanish sausages are married
with ginger, chilli, lime and coriander to create vivacious flavours
and vibrant colours.
Food
@ The Muse, 269 Portobello Rd, W11 1LR (020 7792 1111) Ladbroke Grove
tube. Open daily 10am-4pm, 7-11pm. Licensed. Average £££.
The Cowshed
NEW The Cowshed might be the latest place in Holland Park for ladies
who lunch to have their pedicures and facials done, but it’s also a
beautiful café with a selection of appealing baked goods, salads, a few
hot dishes and some retro cakes. Our niçoise salad was made with
top-quality ingredients, and the seared tuna that came with it was
enticingly fresh and moist. Most of our fellow diners – all female –
were too busy worrying about waistlines and skin blemishes to take
advantage of the good selection of wines available.
The Cowshed, 119 Portland Rd, W11 4LN (020 7078 1944) Holland Park
tube. Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-7pm; Sun 10am-5pm. Licensed.
Average ££.
Esarn Kheaw
Specialising in food from the Esarn region that borders Laos in
north-east Thailand, this no-frills eatery is the real deal. Avoid the
ubiquitous red and green curries and pad Thai (although they’re
perfectly delicious), and opt for hot and fiery regional specialities
such as Chiang Mai sausage, catfish in lime and son-in-law omelette
(omelette with shallots, tamarind and coriander).
Esarn Kheaw, 314 Uxbridge Rd, W12 7LJ (020 8743 8930) Shepherd’s Bush
tube or 207, 260, 283 bus. Open Mon-Fri 12noon-3pm, 6-11pm; Sat,Sun
6-11pm. Licensed. Average £££.
Mika
NEW
This small Japanese canteen in the heart of Notting Hill can’t seem to
decide what sort of place to be: the food is wonderful, staff are
friendly, there’s a ‘strong music policy’ and cocktails are made from
‘seasonal fruit sourced daily from Portobello Market’. So you’d think
it would want you to linger, even on a quiet Friday night. On our most
recent visit, though, the service was quick-quick-quick, resulting in
dishes getting cold. Surely good value doesn’t always have to mean ‘express’?
Mika, 78 Tavistock Rd, W11 1AN (020 7243 8518) Westbourne Park tube. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. Licensed. Average £££.
Ottolenghi
Innovative café chain
NEW This newest and smallest branch of the fashionable chain of
Mediterranean-style food and bakery products is takeaway only. It
specialises in colourful salads (East European-inspired kohlrabi, fresh
dill, ginger and sour cherry is scrumptious) and imaginative hot dishes
such as Moroccan tagines and Italian vegetable bakes. The dainty cakes,
macaroons, meringues and biscuits are gorgeous. Savoury dishes are
freshly cooked in the kitchen downstairs, but the breads are delivered
from its larger branch in Upper Street.
Ottolenghi, 1 Holland St, W8 4NA (020 7937 0003/ www.ottolenghi.co.uk)
High St Kensington tube. Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 8am-7pm; Sun
9am-5pm. Unlicensed. Takeaway only. Average £.
Patio
The set meal (£14.90 for three courses, including vodka shot,
vegetables, salad, fruit and coconut cake) is a bargain in this homely
Polish restaurant where you’ll be greeted like a long-lost relative.
The velvet drapes, patterned carpet and piano (complete with
singalongs) will make you feel like you’re in the sitting room of an
elderly aunt from Kraków. Hearty winter fare includes potato pancakes,
smoked salmon blinis, beef goulash, and Polish cheesecake.
Patio,
5 Goldhawk Rd, W12 8QQ (020 8743 5194) Goldhawk Rd tube. Open Mon-Fri
12noon-3pm, 6-11.30pm; Sat 6-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-11.30pm. Licensed.
Average ££.
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See www.timeout.com/london/restaurants for 2,500 more
reviews (£9.99 annual subscription).
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