Restaurants

Café Feature continues

Al Volo
Al Volo is connected with the Portobello Food Company, importers of Italian produce. Last year Al Volo's kitchen did a thriving trade delivering hot calzone, pasta and other dishes to City workers, and so last autumn they opened this utilitarian canteen next door with plastic cutlery and pizza boxes for plates. It's been such a hit that proper tableware is planned, as is opening in the evenings. Popular with a cool City crowd at lunch, while Nathan Barleys drift through on Sundays.
Al Volo, 16 Hanbury St (entrance in the Truman Brewery car park), E1 6QL (020 7377 0808) Aldgate East tube. Open Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm; Sun 12noon-6pm.

De Santis
This elegant café brings Milanese panini-making to Clerkenwell. The method is simple: quality ingredients (own-made bread, fresh vegetables, specialities imported from Italy) in well-judged combinations (praga ham, brie and own-made pork and duck pâté or bresaola, fontina and incredibly rich caprino al vino blanco with rocket and an enlivening dash of lemon) at good prices.
De Santis , 11-13 Old St, EC1V 9HL (020 7689 5577) Barbican or Farringdon tube. Open Mon-Fri 8.30-11pm.

Malletti
Not somewhere to linger for lunch - there are only a few stools to perch on - this pizza al taglio takeaway joint serves typically Italian fast food. Unsurprisingly, it's a little pricier than Italy (around £3.25 for a pizza slice, with toppings including artichokes and spinach, and tricolore salad), but the aroma, flavours and even the service are authentically Italian.
Malletti, 26 Noel St, W1F 8GT (020 7439 4096) Oxford Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-5pm.

Nino's Paninos
Pollo has closed and Centrale moved, but central Soho still maintains an Italian flavour. The tiny Nino's - which only opened in January - produces the best panini we've had for some time, using proper high-quality Italian ingredients from coppa (ham) to fontina cheese (most panini cost £4-£6) in toothsome breads. The coffee's good too (cappuccino £1.90), and the cannoli and other desserts are good enough to satisfy Tony Soprano.
Nino's Paninos, 23a Frith St, W1V 4RE (020 7734 1111) Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus tube. Open daily 8am-11pm.

Salumeria Dino
This tiny café and deli makes up great panini to order - regulars order from the blackboard, a 'Number One' being the Parma ham, mozzarella and tomato drizzled with olive oil (£3, or £3.25 toasted). The choice of breads includes focaccia (perhaps stuffed with cold meats, cheeses or roasted vegetables), plus there's arancini (filled deep-fried rice balls), coffee and Italian sodas. The only disadvantages are the queues and the shortage of seating.
Salumeria Dino, 15 Charlotte Place, W1B 1AP (020 7580 3938) Goodge St tube. Open Mon-Fri 9am-6pm.

Trattoria

Cleveland Kitchen
This brand new Italian restaurant is cramped but atmospheric, with wobbly wooden tables and a spiral staircase dominating the two floors. The lunch deals - £5 or £9 - consist of proper Italian cooking such as minestrone followed by swordfish with sautéed potatoes, all made with fresh ingredients. The á la carte menu is more involved, and includes classics such as osso bucco with risotto.
Cleveland Kitchen, 145 Cleveland St, W1T 6QH (020 7387 5966) Great Portland St tube. Open Mon-Fri 12noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Sat, Sun 6-10.30pm. Dinner for two with wine and service: around £60.

Stuzzico
Used as a diner by wealthy residents and the ex-patriate visitors who lodge near Marble Arch, this restaurant opened last November and serves Puglia-style food - mostly simple, home-style dishes. A starter of calamari with zucchini fritters was good, and roast rack of lamb was cooked rare as requested. The wine list is ultra-basic (two whites and a few reds) and, considering Puglia is renowned for its breadmakers, the bread basket was very disappointing.
Stuzzico, 24 Kendal St, W2 2AW (020 7262 9122) Marble Arch tube. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Dinner for two with wine and service: around £65.

Ristorante

Alloro
This Mayfair restaurant isn't as well known as some, but both food and service on our last couple of visits have been outstanding. The efficient, formal but friendly service is led by an entertaining maître d' who can talk at length about food, wine and anything else. The menu might be a fairly traditional read, but don't be fooled; there are flamboyant touches, especially when it comes to presentation. Wrapped up in a setprice package, with a wide choice of fine wines, a meal here is a gift to savour.
Alloro, 19-20 Dover St, W1X 4LU (020 7495 4768) Green Park tube. Open Mon-Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm. Meal for two with wine and service: around £90.