Restaurants

Valentin von Amsberg proves that the Germans really do have a sense of humour

Legend: Kurz & Lang
Not, as you might imagine, the names of the founders, Kurz & Lang means ‘short and long’ in German, a reference to the top-notch speciality sausages sold at this cheerful takeaway just off St John Street. Just £3.60 gets you a hearty portion of the best ‘wurst’ with bread, German mustard and ketchup; another 60p adds tangy sauerkraut (really an essential accompaniment to cut through the fat of the meat) and grilled potato cubes. Choose from bratwurst, currywurst, frankfurters, little nurnburgers or the pork-free rindswurst.

Valentin von Amsberg and Ina Zimmermann first met in Berlin and found they shared a liking for a legendary bratwurst spot. They got together several years later – when both had moved to London – to commiserate over the lack of quality hot snack options at lunchtime. They decided to join forces and bring traditional German wurst to the city.

You may think of frankfurters as junk food, but the regulations surrounding sausage production in Germany are rigorous. Explaining this to Brits familiar with American hotdogs is not easy, but von Amsberg and Zimmermann would not take the cheap route. They undertook a long selection process and have chosen a small independent producer in the rural area between Frankfurt and Cologne.

It’s a coincidence that the first branch of Kurz & Lang opened during the World Cup in June, but the goodwill and bonhomie generated for things German certainly helped the fledgling business. Now von Amsberg and Zimmermann are concentrating on meeting the upsurge in demand associated with the September post-holiday return to work for local offices. The prominent corner site near Smithfield has proved a winner – not only for its traditional associations with meat and City lunches, but because it’s close to the clubs; atweekends Kurz & Lang is open until 7am serving fortifying franks to the footsore and freaky.
Kurz & Lang, 1 St John St, EC1M 4AA (020 7993 2746) Farringdon tube/rail.
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Founder William Manning's jerk chicken draws in the celebs as well as the office workers

Legend: Mr Jerk
A favourite of celebrities including Lennox Lewis and Beverley Knight – as well as Soho office workers – this winning little eatery offers a spicy menu of Caribbean greatest hits. According to manager Ishmael Brimah, top of the charts is jerk chicken. You can choose either wings or leg and thigh with salad (£4), or make a meal of it by ordering the full jerk chicken set (£7.50 with rice and beans, yam, banana, and dumplings) – but expect to fall asleep at your desk. Other favourites include patties (chicken, lamb, beef, vegetable or saltfish) for a mere £1.50 each, and fried saltfish dumplings that cost only £2. A large portion of fried chicken thigh (£12.50) will satisfy the heartiest of appetites. There’s a wonderful selection of classic Caribbean drinks too, such as soursop juice and Guinness punch (£2.50-£4).
Mr Jerk, 189 Wardour St, W1F 8ZD (020 7287 2878/www.mrjerk.co.uk) Tottenham Court Rd tube.

Steak your claim to one of Stella Garcia's classic churrasco queso sandwiches

Legend: El Vergel
Surrounded by estates and office blocks, this Latin American lunch spot doesn’t look promising from outside, but go inside and the venue, abuzz with Latin music, is surprisingly busy. Owner Stella de Garcia says that everything is freshly cooked daily in their kitchens (including the breads), and ingredients are bought from the market each morning. The food – which includes tortillas, sandwiches, wraps, salads, cakes and pastries, soups, daily changing specials, and Latin American specialities – is punchily flavoured and lip-smackingly delicious. Bestsellers include churrasco queso (rump steak with melted cheese and tomatoes in Chilean village bread, £3.95), and torta mexicana (another Chilean bread wrap stuffed with shredded chicken, refried kidney beans, guacamole, lettuce and cheese, £3.60). Tacos (£3.80-£3.95, in flavours like diced beef with guacamole) are also popular. Salad boxes (£2.85-£5.50) come in varieties such as smoked salmon and green bean tortilla, with lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, cress, cucumber, peppers and olives. A favourite dessert is their home-made cheesecake topped with dark, luscious cherries (£1.80).
El Vergel, 8 Lant St, SE1 1QR (020 7357 0057/www.elvergel.co.uk) Borough tube.

Co-owners Chris Skinner and Simon Davies have given falafel a makeover

Legend: Just Falafs
Although falafels are adored by just about everyone, in the UK they suffer from an image problem: hard, greasy, badly made and ubiquitous, they’re often considered in the same league as much-maligned kebabs. But as Chris Skinner – who owns this small but excellent takeaway in Covent Garden Piazza with business partner Simon Davies – points out, falafel is an ancient food that’s also very current. The freshly cooked organic falafels here are flecked with an abundance of fresh herbs, and rolled inside Middle Eastern khobez flatbreads with vibrant salads and delicious sauces of choice. They’re so expertly wrapped that you won’t get your fingers messy, making them ideal for eating at your desk. Also worth noting: falafels are highly nutritious and low GI. The most popular combo here is FLT: falafel, leaves and tomatoes, which comes with own-made houmous and tahini (£3.95 to take away). Other sauces include yoghurt, cucumber and mint, aubergine, and chilli. Just Falafs’ healthy salad options range from beetroot to freshly sprouted beans. Porridge, soups and a variety of interesting hot and cold drinks, many of which are Fairtrade, are also available.
Just Falafs, 27b Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 8RD (020 7240 3838) Covent Garden tube.