London's top 50 restaurants

Time Out's legendary covert food critics have been tireless in their quest to find London's best restaurants. They now present the definitive guide to the capital's eateries, including ethnic cuisines, suggestions for fish-lovers, great food for vegetarians and those on a budget, places with amazing decor or ones perfect for that romantic occasion, plus a lucky dip. Among established names, there are some surprises, suggesting an exciting new era in London food

Barrafina

Best fish restaurants
Barrafina
No longer is Fino considered the most appealing Spanish restaurant in London – its owners have literally outdone themselves with this Soho-style homage to Barcelona’s legendary seafood bar Cal Pep. Arrive just before noon and you might be lucky enough to avoid the queues for a stool at the convivial L-shaped bar (no bookings are taken). In addition to the sizeable regular menu, there’s a choice of daily specials, usually focused on the fresh seafood displayed behind the bar. Nibble on almonds, acorn-fed ham and pimientos de padrón while you wait for more involved dishes such as monkfish with spinach and pine nuts, and the must-have chips with fiery brava sauce. A slice of chocolate or Santiago tarts and fine coffee bring your treat of a lunch to a delicious conclusion.
When to go As the doors open, otherwise you’ll have to queue.
What to have A glass of sherry, and whatever your eyes lead you towards on the grill behind the bar counter.
Barrafina, 54 Frith St, W1D 4SL (020 7813 8016/www.barrafina.co.uk) Tottenham Court Rd tube.
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Bentley's
There are few places more evocative of elegant London – and few better places to enjoy fresh seafood – than Richard Corrigan’s adorable revamp of his old alma mater. Table service can be achingly slow but the bar’s where you want to sit anyway. No need for the menu: just half a dozen Irish oysters, followed by the fish pie with green pepper Tabasco sauce. Oh, and something from the excellent wine list.
When to go Before or after the show.
What to have Comfort food – sitting at the bar.
Bentley’s Oyster Bar, 11-15 Swallow St, W1B 4DG (020 7734 4756/www.bentleys.org) Piccadilly Circus tube.
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Fish Club

Fish Club
In summer 2004, Fish Club brought the fish and chip shop up to date by using only top-quality ingredients in contemporary interpretations of classic dishes. High standards have been maintained, even with the pressure of a second branch, opened in autumn 2007 on Clapham High Street. The system is simple: order at the counter (where you can see your fish on ice), pay, take a seat and your meal will be brought to you. The selection of fish and seafood can include razor clams, smoked sprats and prawn and chorizo kebab. It’s a simply decorated place, and takeaway is a big part of business, but for terrific fish and chips, it has few peers.
When to go When frozen fish and a Ginsters pie isn’t good enough.
What to have Surprise yourself with some of the more unusual fish species on offer, such as coley.
Fish Club, 189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (020 7978 7115/www.thefishclub.com) Clapham Junction rail.
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J Sheekey
The lesser-known sibling of The Ivy, and, in our view, a far better restaurant – not least because you can book a table without a months-long wait. It’s old-school and decorated like a gentleman’s dining club, perfect for indiscretions and private meetings. The location in a back alley in the heart of theatreland only adds to the mystique. Fish and seafood are at the core of the menu, with wonderful classic British dishes such as potted shrimp, fish pie, and salmon fishcakes. The service is invariably charming, and it’s everything you’d imagine the piscine sibling of The Ivy to be.
When to go When you want a treat in the heart of the West End.
What to have Shellfish, fishcakes, and – if you can manage – spotted dick.
J Sheekey, 28-32 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL (020 7240 2565/www.caprice-holdings.co.uk) Leicester Square tube.
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Sweetings
For more than a century, this fish restaurant has been offering a refuge for the City gent (and, now, lady) keen to hang up their bowler hat and tuck into whopping portions of lunch. Sweetings is delightfully stuck in time, with cooking that’s determinedly old-fashioned. Start with potted shrimps, followed by the likes of fish pie, skate wing with black butter or whole fish grilled, poached or fried. Complete the schoolyard fantasies with spotted dick, bread-and butter-pudding or fruit crumble. It’s a national treasure.
When to go For business lunches.
What to have Any fish dish.
Sweetings, 39 Queen Victoria St, EC4N 4SA (020 7248 3062) Mansion House tube.
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Find out more about the best London restaurants, buy the Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 now for only £8.49.

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