London's top 50 restaurants

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Mandalay
The road to Mandalay is perilous, beset by thunderous traffic and clouds of exhaust. But the reward for braving the grim end of Edgware Road is this tiny gem of a Burmese restaurant. Brightly lit with wipe-clean tables, Mandalay showcases the blend of Indian, Thai and Chinese flavours and cooking techniques that distinguish Burmese cooking. The Ally family run it, and they’re utterly charming and able to judge a customer’s taste. If you’re bewildered by the long menu of unfamiliar dishes, you’ll be safe in their hands as they pick dishes for you. The bill will be a pleasant surprise.
When to go With a small group of adventurous eaters.
What to have Burmese signature dishes like the twice-cooked fish curry.
Mandalay, 444 Edgware Rd, W2 1EG (020 7258 3696/www.mandalayway.com) Edgware Rd tube.
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Cah Chi
Korean Cah Chi is on a quiet street in suburban Raynes Park. We love its homely atmosphere, chirpy service and the menu, clearly translated, of stews, soups, noodles and barbecues, including two-person specials like bosam (pork with mixed vegetables and Korean condiments). The yukkaejang (spicy beef soup) could be the best in London: a tangle of tender beef shreds and spring onion in a fiery, chilli-rich broth. BYO booze.
When to go When you fancy a walk on the wild side.
What to have The complimentary pickles, the Korean ‘black pudding’, the spicy beef soup.
Cah Chi, 34 Durham Rd, SW20 0TW (020 8947 1081) Raynes Park rail.
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Hibiscus
It’s a brave couple that shut down their hugely successful restaurant in a small market town and move it, with most of the staff, to Mayfair. Yet that’s what chef Claude and manager Claire Bosi did in 2007. Most critics didn’t waste a sitting, descending en masse in its first week, resulting in mixed reviews. But one thing was clear: Claude Bosi is a master of invention, combining ingredients and flavours with flair. Dishes include savoury ice creams, a starter of lamb’s brain, and a cheeky take on the sausage roll (really). The wine list is a dream, too, with plenty by the glass. But Hibiscus is not the place for a wild night out: this is a temple of gastronomy, and worshippers tend to be suitably awed and muted.
When to go For a money-no-object gastronomic experience.
What to have Even the cheapest set menu is lavish enough.
Hibiscus, 29 Maddox St, W1S 2PA (020 7629 2999/www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk) Oxford Circus tube.
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Hereford Road
Spin-offs from St John may seem commonplace, but we think Hereford Road has something special: it very nearly matches the excellence of the original, and sometimes exceeds it. Chef Tom Pemberton’s cooking just seems to get better and better since his days as chef at St John Bread & Wine. The dishes are British, seasonal and bold. The oxtail is a signature dish: a whole tail, served on a long platter like a something from a medieval banquet. Game is abundant during the winter, as are root vegetables; it’s amazing what a good chef can do with a small kitchen crew and some turnips. The room is a little spartan, but who needs ornaments and paintings with cooking like this?
When to go When you fancy hearty British food.
What to have Seasonal British dishes from the daily-changing menu.
Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Rd, W2 4AB (020 7727 1144/www.herefordroad.org) Notting Hill Gate tube.
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Baltic
The decor’s as ice-cool as winter in St Petersburg, but the east European menu’s looking hot, hot, hot. Don’t miss the pierogi – pasta-like dumplings filled with potato – and the subtly spicy flavours of Georgian moussaka. The succulent mizeria, a Polish salad with lashings of sour cream, will change the way you think about cucumber. Baltic’s bread basket, full of deliciously dark, wholesome loaves, is wonderful, too. The bar, which specialises in infused vodkas such as caramel, dill and peppercorn, is a destination in its own right and a great spot for jazz.
When to go When you’re visiting Tate Modern or the Old Vic.
What to have Lashings of sour cream, shots of vodka, and pierogi.
Baltic, 74 Blackfriars Rd, SE1 8HA (020 7928 1111/www.balticrestaurant.co.uk) Southwark tube/rail.
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Bar Shu

Bar Shu
Once upon a time, Chinese food in London was Cantonese, and dim sum was only served at lunchtimes. Alan Yau’s Yauatcha turned the tables on the latter rule, and we’ve got Bar Shu to thank for the current surge of Sichuan restaurants. If you love spice, you’ll love it here. Begin with a cold dish of cucumber, wood-ear fungus, bean-jelly ribbon (like a chewy noodle), beancurd skin, and spicy pork. Chengdu dry-braised sea bass combines meltingly tender fish with a complex spicy sauce. Flavoursome gong bao chicken has crunch provided by peanuts and thick, dried sichuan chillies. We’ve always found service extremely helpful, too. Bar Shu isn’t for the faint-hearted, but it’s a joy to taste such wonderful flavours.
When to go When your palate needs a kick-start.
What to have The milder dishes, such as twice-cooked pork, unless you have a cast-iron constitution.
Bar Shu, 28 Frith St, W1D 5LF (020 7287 6688) Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Rd tube.
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The Eagle
Yes, it may be 17 years old but this old bird is still flying high. It offers a tightly edited selection of good, often Mediterranean or Iberian, things to eat and drink, and presents them in no-nonsense fashion in agreeably ramshackle surrounds. Much comes from the smoky chargrill – mackerel with peppers, olives and bruschetta, and spicy Italian sausages.
When to go Early evening.
What to have Something from the blackboard. The steak sarnie is superb.
The Eagle, 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL (020 7837 1353) Farringdon tube/rail.
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The River Café
This legendary riverside restaurant continues to knock out Italian food to rival even the finest found in its country of inspiration, from the freshest seasonal antipasti, through wonderful pastas, to sensational meat and fish secondi piati and more. For special occasions – but guaranteed to make those occasions special.
When to go On a warm summer evening, to sit outside on the terrace.
What to have Whatever’s in season.
The River Café, Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd, W6 9HA (020 7386 4200/www.rivercafe.co.uk) Hammersmith tube/rail.
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La Fromagerie
These days it’s hard to believe but this iconic Marylebone shop started life in a north London shed. Meals are simple and casual but quality is still exemplary: witness the own-made gravadlax served with toasted Poilâne bread, petit suisse cheese and Sicilian lemon, or the set ‘Spanish farmhouse breakfast’ of charcuterie, cheeses, breads, quince paste, yogurt, juice and coffee. In the afternoons go for a classic Valrhona brownie.
When to go Brunch, lunch, coffee.
What to have Anything with cheese.
La Fromagerie, 2-6 Moxon St, W1U 4EW (020 7935 0341/www.lafromagerie.co.uk) Baker St or Bond St tube.
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Chez Bruce
Oenophiles love Chez Bruce – its list shows care and flair in every country and every region. France dominates, and you can drink well for £30 or less. The set menu has modern flourishes but very Gallic roots. For a main course you could try breast of guinea fowl with wild mushroom tagliatelle, salsify and tarragon, or rump and confit shoulder of lamb with glazed root vegetables and rosemary.
When to go When in Wandsworth, why travel anywhere else?
What to have Game and fish are exemplary (with wine, of course).
Chez Bruce, 2 Bellevue Rd, SW17 7EG (020 8672 0114/www.chezbruce.co.uk) Wandsworth Common rail.
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Moro
The restaurant that made Exmouth Market a destination is now more than a decade old and still going strong as ever. Owners Sam(uel) and Sam(antha) Clark were famously inspired by the simple, rustic cooking they came to love when travelling in Spain, but Moro is emphatically not a tapas joint (though a tapas menu is offered), and in fact takes an inclusive approach to a gamut of Mediterranean ingredients and recipes. The treatment of meat and fish is invariably exceptional, the menu always interesting, the drinks list top-class, and the environs – save some dodgy acoustics – most amenable. When the sun shines, the alfresco tables out front make for lazy lounging in a thoroughly Spanish way.
When to go When you’re entertaining friends from out of town.
What to have A glass of sherry and any of the Moorish-sounding dishes.
Moro, 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE (020 7833 8336/www.moro.co.uk) Farringdon tube/rail.
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Assaggi
While Assaggi’s renowned for celebrity custom (Paul and Stella McCartney, Raymond Blanc and more) and hard-to-get tables, the vibe is delightfully relaxed. Go on Saturday lunchtimes to dine at a leisurely pace. There are many welcome Sardinian touches to the menu (pane carasau, fregola pasta, bottarga) and wine list, but on the whole expect simple dishes cooked and served with verve.
When to go Saturday lunchtimes.
What to have Sardinian specials including fregola and pane carasau.
Assaggi, 1st floor, 39 Chepstow Place, W2 4TS (020 7792 5501) Bayswater, Queensway or Notting Hill Gate tube.
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The Gun
You could try a linen-covered dining table in the main bar of this Tom and Ed Martin outfit, but we prefer to head out back for river and O2 arena views and a more informal eating experience – maybe a chunky pork pie, or pint o’ prawns, and, of course, fat chips. Proper pub food to accompany the likes of Young’s, Adnams and Brakespear’s bitters. If you opt for a formal meal, expect Modern European dishes such as confit rabbit and foie gras terrine, and sea bass with cauliflower purée and ossobuco sauce. The wine list reflects The Gun’s popularity with Canary Wharf office staff – lots of easy-drinking whites and rosés, plus a choice of dessert wines, ports and sherries.
When to go Daytime, for its views.
What to have Pie and a pint.
The Gun, 27 Coldharbour, E14 9NS (020 7515 5222/www.thegundocklands.com) Canary Wharf tube/DLR or South Quay DLR.
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Arbutus
With the success of new branch Wild Honey in 2007 (both restaurants have won Time Out’s Best New Restaurant award in consecutive years) and a cookbook in the pipeline, the groundbreaking Soho restaurant Arbutus has every right to feel proud. Not only have Anthony Demetre and Will Smith won fans for their great-value set lunch, they have also introduced London restaurantgoers (and rival restaurants) to the virtues of the carafe. Menus change weekly and reflect the seasons but some dishes, such as the squid and mackerel burger, and Marseille-style bouillabaisse, have been popular since day one.
When to go Lunch, but be sure to book well ahead.
What to have A carafe of wine and a set-price menu.
Arbutus, 63-64 Frith St, W1D 3JW (020 7734 4545/www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk) Tottenham Court Rd tube.
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St John
The renaissance of British cooking in recent years can be attributed more to Fergus Henderson than any other chef. His St John restaurant has become a universally admired icon. Henderson’s well-publicised ethos of ‘nose-to-tail eating’ occasionally leads to caricatures of the restaurant as a temple for fanatical carnivores, but in truth it caters to most tastes, celebrating the best of British through vegetables, meat and fish alike – all in sensational recipes rendered with skill and precision.
When to go Monday nights tend to be quietest.
What to have Bone marrow with parsley salad; Eccles cake with Lancashire cheese.
St John, 26 St John St, EC1M 4AY (020 7251 0848/www.stjohnrestaurant.com) Barbican tube.
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Ambassador
The menu at this wine bar changes both by season and by mealtime, but we’re always impressed and surprised by the many temptations on offer, whether it’s sourdough toast with own-made jam at breakfast, seared scallops with black pudding and quince at brunch, red mullet with fennel, saffron and olives at lunchtime, or slow-cooked Herdwick mutton with creamed parsnips at dinner. The drinks list is superb, the setting is delightful and it’s not even that pricey. It’s a rare feat, but the Ambassador just about succeeds in its mission to be all things to all people at all times.
When to go All day long.
What to have Try the game dishes when they’re in season.
55 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL (020 7837 0009/www.theambassadorcafe.co.uk) Farringdon tube/rail.
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National Dining Rooms
Oliver Peyton transformed the National Gallery’s under-achieving Italian restaurant Crivelli’s Garden into a real winner – and in October 2007 Time Out named the National Dining Rooms our Best British Restaurant. It’s open for dinner only once a week, but makes a great destination for weekday or Sunday lunches. Chef Shaun Gilmore celebrates home-grown produce with dishes such as eight varieties of heritage tomatoes with sour cherry vinegar, olive oil and wild herbs. There’s a comprehensive list of British artisan cheeses, plus a fine set afternoon tea featuring buttermilk scones and luscious jams. It all confirms that there’s really no excuse for lacklustre food in museum spaces.
When to go Lunchtimes.
What to have England’s glory – anything local and seasonal.
The National Dining Rooms, Sainsbury Wing, National Gallery, WC2N 5DN (020 7747 2525/www.thenationaldiningrooms.co.uk) Charing Cross tube/rail.
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Patogh
The weather may be nothing like the Middle East’s, but this little café just off the Edgware Road brings the sunny flavours of Iran – saffron, garlic, sumac – to foggy days in London. The kebabs, some made with organic lamb and chicken, are particularly succulent and aromatic with the smoky edge of the chargrill right behind the counter. Leafy salads are generously strewn with pungent, biting herbs and the thick aubergine and yoghurt dips are made on the tiny premises. No alcohol is served, but you can take your own – that’s assuming you can nab one of the half-dozen tables. More importantly: remember they don’t take credit cards.
When to go Late evenings, when Edgware Road is a buzz.
What to have Bread, kebabs – and BYO booze.
Patogh, 8 Crawford Place, W1H 5NE (020 7262 4015) Edgware Rd tube.
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Nahm

Nahm
The world’s most acclaimed Thai chef is Australian David Thompson, who now lives mostly in Bangkok. He still finds time to keep standards up at this understated hotel restaurant. We are particularly impressed by the ‘street food’ – not that we’ve ever had street food like this. Starters include a crisp rice pancake rolled around a filling of fresh herbs, fresh longan and shreds of salted chicken. Unusual ingredients abound, such as shards of banana flower deep-fried as a massive garnish. Cooking of this calibre is rare to find in Thailand; here, it’s beyond belief.
When to go Lunch is great value.
What to have Noodle dishes (such as kanom jim) are exceptional.
Nahm, The Halkin, Halkin St, SW1X 7DJ (020 7333 1234/www.nahm.como.bz) Hyde Park Corner tube.
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