Indian | Oriental | Italian | Cheap eats | British | Vegetarian | Gastropubs | Best service | Best to impress | Best for grazing
Best service
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| Giaconda Dining Room |
The Giaconda Dining Room
The
term ‘dining room’ couldn’t be more apt for chef-patron Paul Merrony’s
Denmark Street eatery – barely seating 20, it’s an intimate venue that,
despite its limited space, plays to its strengths. Tracey, Paul’s wife,
does a splendid job of managing front of house, with classic Antipodean
hospitality (the Merrony family is from Sydney, where Paul was
previously an acclaimed chef). So far we’ve been impressed by the
brilliance of the kitchen, with stunning dishes that deserve more than
their sobre descriptions – ‘crab omelette, green salad’ was a stand-out
plate of creamy omelette served in a rich seafood bisque with fat,
meaty crab claws atop, while marinated raw salmon with shards of fennel
was an inspired flavour combination. Late in 2008 Paul badly broke his
arm, which meant Giaconda had to be closed for a while – but not for
long. He re-emerged with a special ‘one-armed chef’ menu of dishes he
could still cook brilliantly with his working arm, and opened only for
lunch. Now that’s dedication. He’s back with two arms working now –
more power to his elbow.
When to go For an intimate dinner with close friends who love good food.
What to have Any of the specials, and a bottle of wine from the well-crafted, well-priced list.
The Giaconda Dining Room, 9 Denmark St, WC2H 8LS (7240 3334/www.giacondadining.com). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
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Garufa
Good
Argentinian food is hard to come by in London; a good Argentinian
restaurant that goes beyond the meaty steakhouse stereotype is even
harder. Garufa proves that while it can work a grill (the mixed
‘parrillada Garufa’ option is a carnivorous feast of four steaks,
chorizo and black pudding), it does other things well, too. Take the
north-eastern speciality of humitas (fried sweetcorn purée), or
succulent empañadas.
When to go When a salad just won’t cut it.
What to have Despite their bigger ambitions, the steaks are still king.
Garufa, 104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE (7226 0070/www.garufa.co.uk). Arsenal tube.
Ambassador
The
menu at this Formica-furnished wine bar changes by season and by
mealtime, but we’re always enjoyed the many temptations on offer,
whether it’s sourdough toast with own-made jam at breakfast, seared
scallops with black pudding and quince at brunch, pappardelle with
puttanesa sauce at lunch-time, or smoked haddock and saffron risotto at
dinner. The drinks list is one of the best in the neighbourhood, and
it’s not even that pricey.
When to go Breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
What to have The wintery cassoulets if in season; or any of the seafood.
Ambassador, 55 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL (7837 0009/www.theambassadorcafe.co.uk). Farringdon tube/rail.
Angelus
An
outstanding local brasserie with just the right touch of luxe. The food
is unapologetically French, unsurprising given that the owner, Thierry
Tomasin (who also worked at Le Gavroche as a sommelier), is French –
ditto the chef, Olivier Duret. The prices may be high, but you get what
you pay for with beautiful dish presentation and subtle but satisfying
flavours.
When to go For clean and pure French cooking in an atmospheric setting.
What to have The fish dishes, which perfectly show off Duret’s light touch.
Angelus, 4 Bathhurst St, W2 2SD (7402 0083/www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk). Lancaster Gate tube.
Wild Honey
Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is
consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz
and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho.
The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing
rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while
the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by
glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts,
with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.
When to go When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws.
What to have The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Wild Honey, 12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160/www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk). Oxford Circus or Bond St tube
The Clerkenwell Kitchen
This
fantastic eatery deserves all the praise it gets – not only does the
owner Emma Miles, boast commendable culinary provenance (Miles used to
work for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage restaurant), they
do their darndest to make the Kitchen as sustainable as possible.
Nearly all produce is sourced from within the UK, which goes towards
the daily-changing, seasonal creations that have us coming back for
more.
When to go If your carbon footprint is playing on your mind.
What to have The vegetarian dishes are a delight – especially the tortillas.
The
Clerkenwell Kitchen, 27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT (7101
9959/www.theclerkenwellkitchen.co.uk). Angel tube or Farringdon tube/rail.
Fish Club
A
more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant
does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns,
razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still
swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or
looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced
and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as
good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic
treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served
with the saffron aïoli.
When to go When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3.
What to have Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Fish Club, 189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115/www.thefishclub.com). Clapham Junction rail.
Indian | Oriental | Italian | Cheap eats | British | Vegetarian | Gastropubs | Best service | Best to impress | Best for grazing
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40 comments
Hot red chillies in eastcote best karahi food reminds me of home cooked food not sweet and creamy like you get in most of the resturants. Value for money ,good service what else can you ask for.
I think Matt you'll find that vegetarians and vegans DO know that most of London is not vegetarian or vegan!
We just like to know where we can go to eat with omnivorous friends, where everybody will get what they want and we (the veggies) are not lumped with the "heavily salty goats cheese something with "sun" dried vegetable" option that seems to be at every restaurant possible.
We do like food you know, we don't enjoy chomping on rocket salad for every single meal.
And in response to your comment on culling livestock, the answer is not to suddenly kill all of them, it's to reduce the demand for meat, which in turn reduces the need for so much wheat, land and water which humans (who can't afford to eat meat) CAN use. For more info, read Tommo's wonderfully articulated post.
I went to Hot Red Chillies in Eastcote and I must say that food was A- class . Any one who wants to eat home real home cooked food I suggest you visit Hot red chillies next to Eastcote station.
Well, this is my answer to that seemingly impertinent question. ,
Real Karahi Food - Hot Red Chillies in Eastcote all the way
the best turkish and meze to be found is i Olives and Figs restauarant in a small alley way in Spitalfields.I found the food is great value for money. Bring your own booze near Liverpool Street is just amazing. I am surprised there is no mention of the place.
??? no mention of Tayyab's? the most popular restaurant with the pakistani and bangladeshi community in London - always huge queues for a tabel - and unbeatable home cooked - on Fieldgate street
The Prince of Wales in Putney, is a hidden gem when it comes
down to Gastropubs. I go there regularly with my partner or friends and we travel over the water from fulham to eat/drink there. I really rate this place.. Has anyone been there?
this website rocks
It is one thing to debate about suitability of omnivorous critics reviewing vegetarian cuisine. I do feel that one may find such a standpoint to be a 'slippery slope' argument – surely such logic would conclude that only vegetarians would be competent to review veg meals, and one might similarly go on to argue that as the subtle differences between different Moroccan herbs may be lost to those unaccustomed (i.e. foreign), only native Moroccan food eating people (note: this is irrelevant of their race/colour, such a category only concerns that one's 'home food' is Moroccan) should be deemed truly competent to review Moroccan food, and so on. What I believe (and correct me if I’m wrong) to be the fallacy here is that the herbivores amongst us must remember that the meat eaters go vegetarian quite often (porcini risotto with truffle shavings anyone?) and it is only suitable that critics represent the mainstream. Like it or not, even for dishes which do not contain meat, the omnivorous palette IS the mainstream and therefore justifies an omnivorous critic. In any case, I accept that this itself is a contentious line of reasoning and do believe debate on this topic may not necessarily be unhealthy.
It is, however, a completely different animal (pardon the pun - I couldn’t resist) to talk about ‘the harmful effects to the environment’ eating meat indirectly causes, and I suspect I am not alone in being quite irritated by the veggies’ pretentiousness in the matter. Sure, cattle may consume part of the Earth’s resources. But are you suggesting that we cull all cattle and livestock in order to ensure that there are more resources left for humankind? Or is your proposed solution to let them all go back into the wilderness? For surely, they will consume as much resources in the wild. Why stop at livestock anyway? Why not start terminating humans whom you deem unfit and a waste of Earth’s resources? For surely, humankind as a species uses up the Earth’s resources the most – makes more sense to address the real issue at hand. Yes, I am being sarcastic. All I’m trying to say is- since when did preferring broccoli to beef suddenly make you guys rulers of the universe?
Let’s also not forget that there are a million ways in which veggies themselves can help reduce the burden to mother nature that they themselves are causing. Recycle more. Invest and donate into research for renewable resources. Cycle around, don’t drive. Watch your carbon footprint. Instead of acting like you are the saints of this world simply because of your dietary preferences, get off your high horse, and if you care about the environment so much, go do something about it. Otherwise, the L.s and S.s, and Tommos – you really are just full of organic fertiliser.
Michael,
Buy the Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide. There is a section on Haute Cuisine. Just be aware in London that there are some expensive restaurants that don't have very good food and some cheap ones that have very good food. Also try the red star recommendations in each section, you can tell by the average pricing which are the more expensive/ "exclusive". (Note Hakkasan is expensive & has very good food) but is far from exclusive (as it is basically a canteen style restaurant with a beautiful interior).
Could someone out there please tell me where I could get a copy of a guide/brochure of the best restaurants in London eg Simpson the Strand, Rules, La Gavote, Connaught Hotel,Gay Hussar etc.
In a nut shell - expensive, exclusive, up market!
Vegetarian/Vegans out there do not seem to understand that the majority of people in London are not vegetarian. Hence restaurant numbers in the review are weighted towards those catering to omnivorous diets.
We recently went to Amaya during our first visit to London and had an unforgettable meal. It was one of the highlights of our trip.
M.moss - your argument falls over at the first hurdle!!! If you object so much to the resources it takes to produce wheat, you'll be comforted to know that 70% of grain and cereals grown in the US are fed to animals reared for the meat industry. It takes 16 pounds of grain to produce 1 pound of meat. According to Compassion in World Farming, about 20% of the world's population could be fed with the grain and soybeans fed to US cattle alone!! On top of this, a 2006 United Nations report summarised the devastation caused by the meat industry by calling it "one of the top two or three most significant contributors to the most serious environmental problems, at every scale from local to global." Need I say more?!