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Best to impress

Hakkasan

The Wolseley
‘Timeless’ and ‘classic’ are the first words that come to mind of this well-loved (and suprisingly new) institution. The opulent dining room shimmers with old-fashioned glamour, but the café area off to the sides is a more understated way to bask in this former car showroom’s luxury. Tempting cakes, splendid teas and coffees and satisfying breakfasts are the main draws, though the brasserie mains (grilled halibut, calf’s liver, roast chicken) hit the spot, too.
When to go Whenever the mood strikes; it’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea.
What to have A soothing cream tea on a wet and rainy day.
The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB (7499 6996/www.thewolseley.com). Piccadilly Circus or Green Park tube.

Chez Bruce
Although oversubscribed – it’s booked yonks ahead – the appeal of Chez Bruse is simple. It’s the sort of upmarket neighbourhood restaurant we’d all like to live near. Oenophiles in particular love it – its list shows care and flair in every country and every region. We were delighted with every dish the professional staff brought us from the Gallic-leaning menu. For example, rabbit came in various ways (terrine, rillettes, rolled breast, along with seared prunes and baked shallots): all full of flavour and the whole thing a visual treat.The best seats are near the window – make sure you specify.
When to go When in Wandsworth, or Balham – but book well in advance.
What to have Any of the French-oriented dishes; with wine, of course.
Chez Bruce, 2 Bellevue Rd, SW17 7EG (8672 0114/www.chezbruce.co.uk). Wandsworth Common rail. Feature continues

Momo
North African food in a very atmospheric setting, immediately evocative of fantasy casbahs. The sour-sweet flavours of the meat and fruit tagines are a pleasure fit for a king, and the grainy couscous is a good foil to the watery sauces. The non-traditional desserts are possibly the best thing on the menu, though the cocktails and herb teas are also excellent.
When to go For escapism and romance.
What to have A couscous dish, and some of the aromatic teas.
Momo, 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH (7434 4040/www.momoresto.com). Piccadilly Circus tube.

J Sheekey
Still as old-school as ever, and all the more charming for it, J Sheekey continues to woo Londoners and tourists alike with its theatrical buzz and stellar seafood. Choose from favourites such as fish pie and fish cakes, or select sophisticated Modern European fare that is equally accomplished – salt-baked bream, chargrilled octopus with capers and sea purslane. A more casual offshoot, the J Sheekey Oyster Bar, recently opened next door – but this main premises remains the stalwart.
When to go To begin a fun night on the West End.
What to have Think fishy thoughts.
J Sheekey, 28-32 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL (7240 2565/www.caprice-holdings.co.uk). Leicester Sq tube.

Hakkasan
A case-study in Chinese chic done well and without the cringe factor. Visiting this louche restaurant is to descend (literally; it’s in a basement) into a world of decadence, of sultry 1930s Shanghai style with James Bond intrigue. And while Hakkasan is no longer under the sole stewardship of Alan Yau (he sold it off to an Abu Dhabi-based company in 2008), there has, so far, been no discernible dip in quality – food, drink or otherwise. The bar serves up luscious oriental-inspired cocktails (a dangerous place to linger) and the kitchen excels in the kind of creative Cantonese cooking even purists would be powerless to resist – take sweet-and-sour Berkshire pork, with its tang taken from pomegranate instead of the usual pineapple. The à la carte is wonderful to peruse, but the dim sum menu (great value, but lunch only) offers up equally sumptuous fare – venison puffs and scallop shumai with tobiko (flying fish roe) are sublime.
When to go At lunch, ask for the dim sum menu and order from that.
What to have To finish off, ask for the century egg congee (savoury rice porridge) served with spring onions and thinly sliced fried dough sticks.
Hakkasan, 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD (7907 1888/www.hakkasan.com). Tottenham Court Rd tube.

Maze
Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.
When to go On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance.
What to have A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.
Maze, 10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000/www.gordonramsay.com). Bond St tube.

L'Autre Pied
It’s no surprise that L’Autre Pied recently won its first Michelin star, as sister restaurant to the fabled Pied à Terre (two stars). Marcus Eaves’ cooking is accomplished and precise, with imaginative yet well-considered flavour combinations. They look good too: translucent poached egg sat upon a vibrant green bed of crushed peas and broad beans. The surroundings have a vaguely Oriental feel, with cloisonné-like screens and dark wood. It’s a small, fairly tight-packed restaurant, best for small groups rather than tête-a-têtes.
When to go With friends who admire both style and substance.
What to have The lunch and pre-theatre menus (6-7pm) are particularly good value at £20.95 for three courses.
L’Autre Pied, 5-7 Blandford St, W1U 3DB (7486 9696/www.lautrepied.co.uk). Baker St or Bond St tube.

Le Cassoulet
For those who never thought they’d be digging into 28-day-aged Châteaubriand in Croydon, and such a good one at that, Le Cassoulet brought a glimmer of culinary hope to the denizens of south London. Chef-patron Malcolm John, who established Le Vacherin in Chiswick, brought his own philosophy of great French food with a friendly vibe to his own turf (John lives in Croydon) and it has paid off. Even in the heat of summer, his signature dish for which the restaurant is named – a rich and hearty stew of duck, pork, sausage and haricot beans – didn’t go unordered, and we’ve also been impressed with well-rendered dishes such as a simple eggs en cocotte with smoked haddock, cream and mustard; ditto a silky smooth creme brûlée that was big enough for two (or three). The service, too, is as polished as you would expect from an establishment in more monied surrounds.
When to go If you fancy French food without the trip into central London.
What to have Apart from the eponymous cassoulet, the kitchen also does moules marinière true justice.
Le Cassoulet, 18 Selsdon Rd, CR2 6PA (8633 1818/www.lecassoulet.co.uk). South Croydon rail.

Wild Honey
Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.
When to go When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws.
What to have The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Wild Honey, 12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160/www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk). Oxford Circus or Bond St tube.

Indian | Oriental | Italian | Cheap eats | British | Vegetarian | Gastropubs | Best service | Best to impress | Best for grazing