Restaurants

J Sheekey
Although it could coast on its reputation alone these days (rather like, some would argue, sister operation Le Caprice), London’s most renowned fish restaurant remains a winner, its star quality relatively undimmed by the passing years. Once ushered inside by the top-hatted doorman and led to your table in one of several immaculately maintained restaurant rooms (if there are no tables, there’s often room at the very handsome bar), you’ll be confronted with a pleasingly plain-speaking and unflashy menu, egalitarian enough to sit beluga caviar alongside (admittedly poshed-up) jellied eels.J Sheekey, 28-32 St Martin's Court, WC2N 4AL (020 7240 2565/www.j-sheekey.co.uk) Leicester Square tube
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Julie's
Very little was right about Prince Charles’s decision to marry Diana Spencer – except perhaps his choice of engagement party venue, this charming, diminutive hostelry. Inside, its warren of small rooms and alcoves create an environment that’s half 1970s Gothic, half imperial Morocco, a look that could see it do effective double duty as the set for Emmanuelle in Marrakech.This louche, raffish appeal hasn’t been lost on patrons, who have nicknamed one of the downstairs dining spaces the Snog Pit.
Julie's, 135 Portland Road, W11 4LW (020 7733 8855/www.juliesrestaurant.com) Holland Park tube
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Kettners
Kettners was founded in 1867 as a highfalutin French restaurant by the former chef to Napoleon III, Auguste Kettner. By the 1970s it had been taken over by Pizza Express; the result was like a pizzeria wearing a posh but tattered frock. A refurb in 2002 spruced it up considerably, though it retains the Edwardian look of dusty pinks and still has the air of a faded English seaside resort.Kettners, 29 Romilly Street, W1D 5HP (020 7734 6112/www.kettners.com) Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus tube
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