Restaurants

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Jerk City
The space is small but the portions are huge at this popular Caribbean caff formerly known as Mr Jerk. To some tummies a snack of Jamaican patties is enough for a whole meal, but then there are mile-high mains such as richly warming braised oxtails with rice and peas, mutton curry, brown stew chicken with dumplings, and of course jerk chicken. For authentic liquid refreshment, try the Guinness punch and soursop juice. It gets very busy at lunchtimes, but is also open in the evenings and a handy stop-off after post-work drinks.
Jerk City, 189 Wardour St, W1F 8ZD (020 7287 2878) Tottenham Court Rd tube. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 12noon-7pm. Licensed. Average £.

Mother Mash
NEW
A modernised and much better version of London’s traditional pie ’n’ mash shops, Mother Mash pays tribute to the forebears with a charming interior of white tiles and booth seating. You’ll find several types of mash, a choice of pies or sausages, and five gravies to choose from. A main course will set you back just £7.95 if you order a pie, a pound less if you prefer bangers. Alternatively, there are main-course salads for £6.50, including tuna Niçoise, a sausage Caesar, and a vegetarian mix of fruit, Stilton and almonds. Old-school puds round off the comfort-food experience nicely. At breakfast expect butties and variations on the full English.
Mother Mash, 26 Ganton St, W1F 7QZ (020 7494 9644/www.mothermash. co.uk) Oxford Circus tube. Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-10pm; Sat 12noon-10pm; Sun 12noon-5pm. Licensed. Average £££.
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Ooze
NEW Finally, a good quality risotto outside of Italy – and plenty of ’em, at this sparsely modern ‘risotto bar’, serving sturdy one-dish lunches starting at £6.95, or a satisfying full menu. Risottos of carnaroli rice are topped with ingredients such as pan-fried sea bass or pumpkin, hazelnut and sage, added just before serving. There is a choice of dishes low in salt or fat. If you think you can fit in more, go for the Italian-style starters (£2.50-£4.50) or main-course salads (£6.95). It’s worth visiting off-peak if you can.
Ooze, 62 Goodge St, W1T 4NE (020 7436 9444) Goodge St tube. Open Mon-Sat 12noon-11pm. Licensed. Average £££.


Patogh
Luscious Persian kebabs
It doesn’t look much from the outside, but the groups of Iranians crowded around the chunky wooden tables, and the spice-laden aromas emanating from the tiny char-grill are your clues that here are some of the best kebabs in London. Arguably the highlight is the seed-studded flatbread on which they are served, strewn with pungent fresh herbs, pickled chillies and salad. To drink there’s mint tea, big-brand soft drinks or traditional fermented yogurt drinks, which are authentic but something of an acquired taste. Service is sweet and gentle but remember: no credit cards. Don’t be discouraged if downstairs is packed – there are a few tables upstairs, too.
Patogh, 8 Crawford Place, W1H 5NE (020 7262 4015) Edgware Rd tube. Open daily 12.30-11pm. Unlicensed. BYO. No corkage charge. Average ££.

Pho
This part of London isn’t exactly short of low-priced Vietnamese cafés, but Pho differs in being more stylish and accessible than most. Though it has English owners, dishes aren’t dumbed down; in fact, Vietnamese street snacks are highlighted. Pho (pronounded ‘fur’) is beef broth and noodle soup, and is the mainstay of this menu, coming in more than a dozen variations. The stock is aromatic, richly flavoured yet clear, such that the accompanying seasonings (a little plate of fresh herbs, red chillies, beansprouts, squeeze of lime) are barely needed. Our flat rice noodles also had a perfectly elastic texture, and both the meatballs and slices of steak were first class. The other dishes are more variable in quality.
Pho, 86 St John St, EC1M 4EH (020 7253 7624) Farringdon tube/rail. Open Mon-Fri 12noon-3pm, 6-10pm. Licensed. Average ££.

Piada
NEW
Sandwiches made to order on piadina, a tortilla-like flatbread of the Emilia-Romagna region, are the draw at this retro-styled Italian diner. Prices start at three quid for the breakfast-style sandwich with eggs, bacon, mushroom and tomato, and max out at £4.30 for combinations such as bresaola and parmesan, or prosciutto and mozzarella. There’s also good espresso from the stylish Faema machine, and sfogliatelle, a delicious ricotta pastry (£2.60).
Piada, 12-14 St John St, EC1M 4AY (020 7253 0472/www.piada.co.uk) Farringdon tube/rail. Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm. Licensed. Average £.

Ranoush Juice Bar
MOUTH-WATERING WRAPS
West Londoners in need of satisfying kebabs and fresh juices no longer need to limit themselves to the long-standing Edgware Road outlet of this popular Middle Eastern chain, which is run by the team behind Maroush restaurants. Brompton Road, High Street Ken and the King’s Road all have branches. While the trays of fresh, colourful mezze (tabbouleh, labneh, houmous) are tempting, most folk happily join the queue for the superb shawarma. Wraps start at £3. Service is brisk and the hygiene impeccable.
Ranoush Juice Bar, 43 Edgware Rd, W2 2JR (020 7723 5929) Marble Arch tube. Open daily 8am-3am. Unlicensed. Average ££.

Square Pie Company
NEW
Still watching the calories as part of your diet but craving some warming comfort food? This new branch of Square Pie in the refurbished Brunswick Centre cleverly offers three ‘naked pies’ each day – comprising the filling but no pastry. There’s also a ‘superfood’ pie available, featuring sweet potato, chickpeas, broccoli and spinach, among other goodies. Konditor & Cook cakes, wines and beers will undo all the good work. Prices start at £2.95 for a small pie. There are 25 tables inside and extensive outdoor seating. Not on your patch? Other
branches include Canary Wharf, Selfridges, Heathrow and the original Spitalfields Market site, though the range differs somewhat between each.
Square Pie Company, Unit 9, Brunswick Centre, WC1N 1AF (020 7837 6207) Russell Square tube. Open Mon-Sat 8am-10.30pm; Sun 8am-10pm. Licensed. Average £.

The Vincent Rooms
Nowhere else can you find good international-style cooking and a calm elegant atmosphere with dish prices under a tenner. What’s the catch? The food (maybe braised pork belly with black pudding mash and cider jus, or Moroccan lamb with apricot and almond couscous) is produced by catering students learning how to run restaurants. And if they’re ever lacking motivation they can be reassured that graduates of this esteemed establishment include Jamie Oliver and Ainsley Harriot. The lunchtime brasserie menu is £15 for three courses and coffee. Dinner, including canapés and petits fours is £20.
The Vincent Rooms, Westminster Kingsway College, Vincent Square, SW1 2PD (020 7802 8391) St James’s Park tube or Victoria tube/rail. Open Mon, Fri 12noon-1.15pm; Tue-Thur 12noon-1.15pm, 6-7.15pm.Closed college holidays. Licensed. Average ££.
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