• Japanese Hot Tables

  • By Kei Kikuchi

  • Central London has more than its share of overpriced Japanese restaurants such as Nobu Berkeley, but it‘s also the place to look for bargains.


  • They might not win awards for culinary excellence, and their seating may discourage lingering, but these reliable little places offer good deals on all the mainstream options (sushi, sashimi, noodles, yakitori, teriyaki, tempura, katsu and bento combinations) all day – not just for lunch. Some throw in free green tea too.

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    Centrepoint Sushi
    Surprisingly plush, prim and proper for a humble eatery, tucked away above a Korean-Japanese grocery store in the annexe of the Centrpoint building. Good food too.
    Centrepoint Sushi, 20-21 St Giles High St, WC2H 7LN (020 7379 3369) Tottenham Court Rd tube. Set lunch £8-£13.50.

    Japan Centre
    The Toku restaurant sits next to a travel shop on the ground floor, above a grocery shop in the basement and below a bookshop on the first floor. There are unusual brown-rice options on the menu.
    Japan Centre, 212 Piccadilly, W1J 9HG (020 7255 8255) Piccadilly Circus tube. Set lunch £6.90-£14.30; set dinner £7.90-£14.80.

    Kintaro Sushi
    Space and the menu are minimal, but this open-all-day newcomer is second only to Misato (see below) for vast set-meal portions. No credit cards.
    Kintaro Sushi, 26-27 Lisle St, WC2H 7BA (020 7437 4549) Leicester Square tube. Set lunch £5-£9. Set dinner £6-£15.

    Kyoto
    Another good-value newcomer, this Korean-run restaurant has made itself attractive with floor pebbles and table calligraphy. Try the delicately steamed pork gyoza.
    Kyoto, 27 Romilly St, W1D 5AL (020 7437 2262) Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus tube. Set lunch £7.99.

    Misato
    No frills and no credit cards, small menu, breathtakingly big portions (mostly katsu and teriyaki) served on plastic plates. The sushi is fine too, but steer clear of the tori kara-age (deep-fried chicken).
    Misato, 11 Wardour St, W1D 6PG (020 7734 0808) Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus tube. Set lunch £5.60-£7.20.

    Ramen Seto
    Decor and crockery couldn’t be plainer nor the menu simpler, but ten slices of salmon and tuna for £7 is unbeatable value.
    Ramen Seto, 19 Kingly St, W1B 5PY (020 7434 0309) Oxford Circus tube. Set meals £5.50-£8.80.

    Satsuma
    Not the cheapest of the cheap eats, but Royal China Group’s take on Wagamama is a slick and tasty affair, and a cut above many of its nearby rivals. Bookings not accepted.
    Satsuma, 56 Wardour St, W1D 3HN (020 7437 8338) Piccadilly Circus tube. Main courses £8-£16.

    Taro
    A double-height basement of cream walls and blond furniture purveying the expected batch of treats. You’ll find its older sister in Brewer Street.
    Taro, 10 Old Compton St, W1D 4TF (020 7439 2275) Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Rd tube. Set meal £8-£13.

    Tokyo Diner
    Open 365 days of the year, this veteran has three floors (smoking on the first only). The menu is helpfully annotated, but quality is erratic, service can be off-hand (by Japanese standards) and the stools are titchy. Tipping is discouraged.
    Tokyo Diner, 2 Newport Place, WC2H 7JP (020 7287 8777) Leicester Square tube. Set lunch (Mon-Fri 12noon-6.30pm) £4.40-£8.80.

    Zipangu
    Three floors (all no-smoking) of limited space and zero atmosphere – but good, authentic Japanese food.
    Zipangu, 8 Little Newport St, WC2H 7JJ (020 7437 5042) Leicester Square tube. Set lunch (12noon-5.30pm) £6-£12. Set dinner £9.50-£14 five courses.

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