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Ranoush Juice: Shawarma to go

Ranoush Juice
LEBANESE FAST FOOD ON EDGWARE ROAD
Snappy and efficient, this original branch of the Lebanese café chain is a great pitstop for either an easy lunch or post-partying sustenance. By day the place gleams, thanks to the long deli bar that runs the length of the room, reflected in the art-deco mirrored walls flanked by high swivel stools and a handful of round tables. On our recent visit most diners had an impressive spread of Lebanese mezze dominating their tabletops – houmous, chicken livers, sujuk sausages and so forth – along with the obligatory shawarmas for which Ranoush Juice is best known. Adept staff move like lightning: discs of thin shami bread are laid out, sliced tomatoes and mouth-puckeringly good gherkins are scattered on top followed by a generous glug of a creamy garlicky sauce. The pièces de résistance are, of course, the two formidable shawarmas (chicken and lamb) rotating at the front of the shop; juicy slices are deftly shorn off by the staff and scooped into the waiting arrangement of bread before being wrapped up and plonked on the counter.
Ranoush Juice, 43 Edgware Rd, W2 2JR (020 7723 5929). Marble Arch tube. Open late. Unlicensed (no alcohol allowed). Feature continues

Iznik Kaftan
OTTOMAN CUISINE IN BROMPTON CROSS
The newer, smarter-looking sister to Iznik in Highbury, Iznik Kaftan continues to deliver tempting selections of chicken or lamb kebabs, bulked out with rice and salad and served in sophisticated and inspired surroundings. The food equals that in the original Iznik – içli köfte is a crackingly good wheat-paste shell filled with minced lamb, the contrasting textures working a treat. Yogurtlu kebab is richer and more satisfying: tender pieces of lamb are bathed in a delicately spiced, fresh-tasting yoghurt and tomato sauce with just the right amount of tang.
Iznik Kaftan, 99-103 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RH (020 7581 6699/www.iznik.co.uk). South Kensington tube.

Abu Zaad
BUDGET-PRICED SYRIAN DISHES
This Syrian restaurant has reasonably priced Damascene food ranging from meat-heavy kebabs to vegetarian-friendly mezze and, being Syrian, the odd spicy kebab and lots of oven-baking in yoghurt. Try the kebab bil tahina – a traditional dish of spicy lamb topped with yoghurt and rich tahina. The harsh lighting and tiled floors look a little severe, but venture further to the back room to take a seat at the inlaid marbled tables and let yourself be guided by smiling, food-savvy service.
Abu Zaad, 29 Uxbridge Rd, W12 8LH (020 8749 6107/www.abuzaad.co.uk). Shepherd’s Bush tube.

Sufi
PERSIAN DISHES IN SHEPHERD'S BUSH
Unusual for an Iranian eatery, there’s plenty of moreish vegetarian options here, though most customers go for the comforting home-style mains of perfectly tender kebabs, nicely complemented by rich stews. All grills are served with fluffy rice and grilled tomatoes. Chello joojeh kebab is an impressive whole spring chicken marinated in a piquant ‘special sauce’, served with zesty lemon and salad, while the lamb kebabs are truly out of this world. Tender baby lamb kebabs are prepared in a number of ways – simply grilled, marinated, wrapped in naan or minced and skewered – all decisively delicious.
Sufi, 70 Askew Rd, W12 9BJ (020 8834 4888/www.sufirestaurant.com). Hammersmith tube then 266 bus.

The Kebab Kid
BEST FOR LATE NIGHT
This little takeaway is a cut above the rest, with no greasy doners of fatty minced lamb, just proper shawarmas (chicken or lamb) of prime cuts of meat (from Smithfield Market), or shish kebabs cooked on skewers to order. The details are good: we liked the crunchy shredded salad, and the (optional) smear of own-made taramasalata. A medium shawarma costs £5.20, but not even the constant queue of cabbies (it’s like a taxi rank outside) begrudge paying that little bit extra.
The Kebab Kid, 90 New Kings Rd, SW6 4LU (020 7731 0427). Parsons Green or Putney Bridge tube. Open late.

Mahdi
BEST FOR IRANIAN
Few restaurants have endeared themselves to both Iranians and Londoners as much as Mahdi, purveyor of some of the finest Iranian food the capital has to offer. Lovingly prepared marinated chicken and lamb kebabs are larger than life and don’t play second fiddle to more creative dishes such as tah chin – oblongs of crispy rice bound with egg and sweetened with barberries.
Mahdi, 217 King St, W6 9JT (020 8563 7007). Hammersmith tube.

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