Fanning the flames: the Turkish ocakbasi (charcoal grill) at Maedah Grill
Kebabs aren’t just greasy late-night stomach liners. How about aromatic lamb from the Moghul courts, subtly spiced savouries from Iran, or smouldering Lebanese shawarmas? Time Out picks the capital’s greatest grilled meats
Fanning the flames: the Turkish ocakbasi (charcoal grill) at Maedah Grill
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Amaya
ELEGANT SETTING FOR MOGHUL COOKING
Amaya, the very smart flagship of the excellent Masala World Group (Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy etc), specialises in Indian grills. The meat is prepared using complex Awadhi methods from the northern Indian city of Lucknow – the former location of one of the Moghul courts – but the heating techniques are simple: the tandoor (a hot clay oven that roasts the dishes); the sigri, which is grilling over a coal-fired flame; or the tawa, which is cooking on a hot iron plate or griddle. As such, the dishes of grilled meats and kebabs are elaborate, aromatic and seldom seen outside India, as they tend to be labour-intensive. Dishes are morsel-sized and not cheap, but they’re fit for a rajah. Don’t expect a restaurant stuck in the past though – the dishes and interior are dashingly modern.
Amaya, 19 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8JT (020 7823 1166). Knightsbridge tube.
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Sitaaray
BOLLYWOOD FOOD IN COVENT GARDEN
This Indian restaurant is Bollywood themed, from the decorated posters of classic movies to the contemporary song-and-dance scenes playing on TV screens on both floors. The effect is camper than a Rajasthani caravan, yet seems an apt setting for the surprisingly sophisticated cooking. For £19.50 you get a procession of a dozen or so dishes – most of them kebabs – until you’re sated. All the dishes we tried were excellent, but we particularly enjoyed mint-marinated, chargrilled tiny lamb chops; the shaami kebabs (pan-fried ground lamb patties flavoured with coriander, onion and chillies); and the unusual variation on shaami kebabs studded with sweetcorn but tasting of fenugreek. Vegetarians are also well catered for, but in this house of kebabs, the other dishes are mere cameos.
Sitaaray, 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (020 7269 6422/www.sitaaray.com). Covent Garden or Holborn tube.
Dionysus
BEST FOR LATE NIGHT
These Greek gods just
opposite Centrepoint dish up the usual Anglo-Cypriot late-night kebabs.
A chicken and doner kebab, in pita bread with salad – plus the
essential polystyrene container to prevent it going down your front –
costs a mere £4.90 takeaway. The meat is halal, though it’s probably
not free range, organic or ‘freedom’ – but is it tasty? You bet!
Dionysus,
3-5 Oxford St, W1R 1RF (020 7434 4204). Tottenham Court Rd tube. Open late.
Patogh
BEST FOR IRANIAN
This tight-packed Iranian café off Edgware
Road serves wonderful Iranian flatbreads with minced lamb or chicken
wrapped around skewers, then chargrilled. Most mains are served on grim
metal plates, but it somehow adds to the authentic experience. The
salads include whole fresh fronds of mint and tarragon, which really
make the flavours sing. Drink doogh with them – a herby yoghurt drink.
Patogh, 8 Crawford Place, W1H 5NE (020 7262 4015). Marble Arch tube.
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22 comments
Unfortunately you have missed the two best new tastes in London at this current moment in time:
TAD Restaurant in Hackney 261 Mare Street, I mean the retaurant just brings light to the area.
and the new branch TAD Mangal in Fulham, 297 North End Road
Check out the appoval given on the Kebab Kid Group on Facebook! Courtesy of some seriously loyal customers!
Testi in Stokey for me too! Mmmmmm
I think the journalists just post thse who advertise wth the magazine as so many places have been missed even in general reviews
Lahore is good, tayabs use to much colouring.
Those who ever fly out from Heathrow should def try out Karahi Express - Its an indian restaurant similar to lahore.
very popular in west london. full of locals
What about Testi in Stoke Newington??
What about the famous Lahore Kebab House just off Commercial Road in E1. I've been going there for years and despite it becoming trendy in more recent times the food is still second to none.
Also Tayyab in Fieldgate Street, E1, also great food. You'll probably have to queue.
bouzoukia on the hill n10 very friendly plus authentic dancing and music on fri and sat
lemonade hendon kosher with authentic yemeni sauces
BOLU BOLU BOLU of CAMBERWELL. and how was this missed?
Bolu Kebab in camberwell is by far the best late-night kebab shop. also Dionysus might just burn down again... acidentally....
Surely Crystal on Holloway Road deserves a mention? Easily one of the best in North London.
We need to know if the ingredients are any good or not.
Many fast food outlets (a category in which kebab shops fit) and cheap eateries cut corners by means of pretty nasty ingredients.
I wish Timeout and other publications would check the quality of the ingredients used (any establishments with nothing to hide would have no problem to allow this).
Reviews based solely on presentation and flavour should nowadays considered lazy journalism...
surely lahore kebab house in hendon deserves a mention?
karahi express in hounslow west does the best mixed grill around. succulent seekh kebabs,and chicken.
Best Mangal in North End Road was excellent on our first visit. I miss the Cypriot kebab restaurants what were so common in London some years back - but Best Mangel is a a great replacement. This was endorsed by people at a nearby table who live outside the neighbourhood, and who make a special effort to visit once a month. The kebabs and quail were perfectly spiced and cooked, the salad and the bread were fresh. My only gripe was the menu 'special' - grilled king prawns - which were the already cooked variety which were then grilled - so they lacked the flavour of freshly grilled prawns.
Mark: The Marathon is known more for it's entertainment (or lack of) rather than it's food.