Fanning the flames: the Turkish ocakbasi (charcoal grill) at Maedah Grill
London’s best kebabs
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By Guy Dimond and Charmaine Mok. Photography Ming Tang-Evans
Posted: Mon Sep 1 2008 -
Kebabs aren’t just greasy late-night stomach liners. How about aromatic lamb from the Moghul courts, subtly spiced savouries from Iran, or smouldering Lebanese shawarmas? Time Out picks the capital’s greatest grilled meats
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Amaya
ELEGANT SETTING FOR MOGHUL COOKING
Amaya, the very smart flagship of the excellent Masala World Group (Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy etc), specialises in Indian grills. The meat is prepared using complex Awadhi methods from the northern Indian city of Lucknow – the former location of one of the Moghul courts – but the heating techniques are simple: the tandoor (a hot clay oven that roasts the dishes); the sigri, which is grilling over a coal-fired flame; or the tawa, which is cooking on a hot iron plate or griddle. As such, the dishes of grilled meats and kebabs are elaborate, aromatic and seldom seen outside India, as they tend to be labour-intensive. Dishes are morsel-sized and not cheap, but they’re fit for a rajah. Don’t expect a restaurant stuck in the past though – the dishes and interior are dashingly modern.
Amaya, 19 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8JT (020 7823 1166). Knightsbridge tube. Feature continuesAdvertisementSitaaray
BOLLYWOOD FOOD IN COVENT GARDEN
This Indian restaurant is Bollywood themed, from the decorated posters of classic movies to the contemporary song-and-dance scenes playing on TV screens on both floors. The effect is camper than a Rajasthani caravan, yet seems an apt setting for the surprisingly sophisticated cooking. For £19.50 you get a procession of a dozen or so dishes – most of them kebabs – until you’re sated. All the dishes we tried were excellent, but we particularly enjoyed mint-marinated, chargrilled tiny lamb chops; the shaami kebabs (pan-fried ground lamb patties flavoured with coriander, onion and chillies); and the unusual variation on shaami kebabs studded with sweetcorn but tasting of fenugreek. Vegetarians are also well catered for, but in this house of kebabs, the other dishes are mere cameos.
Sitaaray, 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (020 7269 6422/www.sitaaray.com). Covent Garden or Holborn tube.
Dionysus
BEST FOR LATE NIGHT
These Greek gods just opposite Centrepoint dish up the usual Anglo-Cypriot late-night kebabs. A chicken and doner kebab, in pita bread with salad – plus the essential polystyrene container to prevent it going down your front – costs a mere £4.90 takeaway. The meat is halal, though it’s probably not free range, organic or ‘freedom’ – but is it tasty? You bet!
Dionysus, 3-5 Oxford St, W1R 1RF (020 7434 4204). Tottenham Court Rd tube. Open late.
Patogh
BEST FOR IRANIAN
This tight-packed Iranian café off Edgware Road serves wonderful Iranian flatbreads with minced lamb or chicken wrapped around skewers, then chargrilled. Most mains are served on grim metal plates, but it somehow adds to the authentic experience. The salads include whole fresh fronds of mint and tarragon, which really make the flavours sing. Drink doogh with them – a herby yoghurt drink.
Patogh, 8 Crawford Place, W1H 5NE (020 7262 4015). Marble Arch tube.
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28 comments
Since Dionysus has now sadly closed, there are THREE London outlets that deserve special mention for serving a quality "minced meat mix" type of Doner Kebab:-
'Bosphorus Kebabs' - 59 Old Brompton Road SW7.
'The Best Turkish Kebab' - 125 Stoke Newington Road N16.
'Acton Hill Kebab & Grill' - 269 High Street W3.
The food at TAD is good but the service is S-L-O-W and the waiters are so rude! When I pointed out that we had been waiting over 40 minutes for our food our waiter told me that was not the case and simply walked away. No apology, no follow-up, nothing. When it did eventually come the food was good but in future I will be sticking with Anatolia - delicious food AND nice staff.
TAD for TASTE
TAD restaurant in Hackney for me thankyou, i would like to see TAD on your review nxt year, not many turkish restaurant outside the city brings out the taste of meat as well as TAD Restaurant.
The Best Kebabs, Fish. and Lamb Chops are all served in Stoke Newington. Very Reasonable prices. Hussan Restaurant, and many others along the main road do a raring business and are open until very late everyday.
Everyone should try there.
I have eaten at many of these restaurants and am shocked that Beyti on green lanes by Newington Green is not there. my favourite Kebab restaurant in London. Fantastic cuts of meat, expertly charcoal grilled - all at a credit crunch busting low price. An absolute treat!
How can Best Mangal have been missed off. travesty!
Unfortunately you have missed the two best new tastes in London at this current moment in time:
TAD Restaurant in Hackney 261 Mare Street, I mean the retaurant just brings light to the area.
and the new branch TAD Mangal in Fulham, 297 North End Road
Check out the appoval given on the Kebab Kid Group on Facebook! Courtesy of some seriously loyal customers!
Testi in Stokey for me too! Mmmmmm
I think the journalists just post thse who advertise wth the magazine as so many places have been missed even in general reviews
Lahore is good, tayabs use to much colouring.
Those who ever fly out from Heathrow should def try out Karahi Express - Its an indian restaurant similar to lahore.
very popular in west london. full of locals
What about Testi in Stoke Newington??
What about the famous Lahore Kebab House just off Commercial Road in E1. I've been going there for years and despite it becoming trendy in more recent times the food is still second to none.
Also Tayyab in Fieldgate Street, E1, also great food. You'll probably have to queue.
bouzoukia on the hill n10 very friendly plus authentic dancing and music on fri and sat
lemonade hendon kosher with authentic yemeni sauces
BOLU BOLU BOLU of CAMBERWELL. and how was this missed?
Bolu Kebab in camberwell is by far the best late-night kebab shop. also Dionysus might just burn down again... acidentally....