Restaurants

See all winners in the Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2008

WINNER 'BEST TEA ROOM' TIME OUT EATING AND DRINKING AWARDS 2008
Orange Pekoe
A riverside gem favoured by young families as well as tea experts, the Orange Pekoe tea room enjoys a broad following. Fans are attracted by its villagey charm, homely cooking and fabulous teas. It’s a cosy, welcoming place with a food counter at the front leading to rustic-style tables towards the back.

Wild flowers in alcoves, teatime trinkets and blackboard menus add to the homespun appeal. At the entrance, rows of black tea caddies are filled with around 50 special varieties. The house blend is especially invigorating – a carefully honed mix of Darjeeling tea, underpinned by the rounded character of Ceylon. Just as outstanding, silver-tipped jasmine deserves accolades for its deep, mellow, sweet fragrance. Knowledgeable, on-the-ball staff are happy to suggest and advise.

Although we’re tempted by the big, beautiful cakes, hearty sandwiches and cold lunch platters, it’s the cream teas and pots of tea that keep us coming back. On sunny days, bag a table outside for a languid afternoon clinking china and savouring the brew.
Orange Pekoe, 3 White Hart Lane, SW13 0PX (020 8876 6070/www.orangepekoeteas.com). Barnes Bridge rail or bus 209.
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RUNNERS-UP
Tea Smith
Sleekly appointed with oriental-style furnishings, Tea Smith, run by husband-and-wife team John Kennedy and Tomoko Kawase, is a thoroughly modern setup with a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. The filtered water is temperature controlled; making tea involves a succession of metal spouts, tea infusers and jug juggling. For something unusual, try ‘sparrow’s tongue’, a Korean green variety prized for its fresh flavour; ‘thistle blossom’ for its floral notes; or romantically entitled ‘snow jewel’, redolent of delicate fruits. Our gold star went to chilled green jasmine tea, infused overnight with cold water to bring out its clean-tasting aromatic qualities. Sweet treats from ace-pâtissier William Curley include miniature green-tea cakes and lush chocolate nibbles.
Tea Smith, 8 Lamb St, E1 6EA (020 7247 1333/www.teasmith.co.uk). Liverpool St tube/rail.

Postcard Teas
Tim d’Offey lives for tea. His simply furnished tea room is a Zen-like sanctuary from the world outside – a reasonably priced spot in which to linger around the communal table over some of the world’s finest infusions. In the past, we’ve enjoyed the boldness of ‘big smoke’ (black tea leaves smoked over cinnamon wood and blended with Darjeeling), which is outstanding for its clarity and warm spicy aroma. Equally notable is blossom tea, made with flowers from coffee bushes (which bloom for a day or so twice a year) blended with a variety of silver-needle white tea, for a supremely delicate brew. There’s usually one light sponge cake to whet the appetite, but here it’s the tea that does the talking.
Postcard Teas, 9 Dering St, W1S 1AG (020 7629 3654/www.postcardteas.com). Bond St or Oxford Circus tube.

Chaiwalla
Though inspired by tea (chai) stalls in Kolkata, India – on railway platforms, roadside corners and bazaars – this is no spit-and-sawdust caff. Modern styling gives it an urban appeal, with low seating, Indian inlay work, and images of Asian street scenes across the walls. Its earthenware tumblers, made in West Bengal, are disposable in India, but customers here are encouraged to take them home. Even though there’s a small selection of specialist brews, it’s the masala chai that scores top marks. Spiked with ginger and hints of cinnamon, it has just the right balance of milk and tastes all the better for being served in a clay pot. Lunches and sweetmeats are available, but we recommend the baked samosas (particularly the chicken and paneer) for the classic Indian afternoon tea experience.
Chaiwalla, 4a-5a Perrins Court, NW3 1QS (020 7435 2151). Hampstead tube.

Tea Palace
Sharing a street with fashionable boutiques and spas, Tea Palace attracts the pampered as well as the tea aficionados from across London. Decor in the seating area has a retro-chic vibe; a swirly purple carpet and tiered cake stands contrast tastefully with oriental wind chimes, quirky doily-effect patterns on walls, and soft leather banquettes. Impressively, the 16-page tea list includes such exotica as cherry blossom black tea, lavender grey (earl grey blended with flowers from Provence) and green tea made with puffed rice. A dinky-sized portion of leaves is brought to the table for inspection, making the transformation into a fragrant brew all the more memorable. Surprisingly unstuffy, the atmosphere is laid-back and kids are welcomed. On our visit, the Darjeeling first flush didn’t live up to its promise, having slightly stewed notes – a glitch in an otherwise enjoyable afternoon.
Tea Palace, 175 Westbourne Grove, W11 2SB (020 7727 2600/www.teapalace.co.uk). Bayswater or Notting Hill Gate tube.

See all winners in the Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2008