Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2009
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Anonymously reviewed by Time Out's panel of expert judges
Updated: Wed Sep 16 2009
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Best New Restaurant | Best New Italian | Best New Cheap Eats | Best New Gastropub | Best New Bar | Best New Local Restaurant | Best New Café | Best New Design | Best Spanish Restaurant | Best Spanish Wine List
Best New Gastropub-
WINNER: Harwood Arms
Walham Grove, Fulham, SW6 1QP
Fulham has no shortage of gastropubs, but this one stands out for the ambition of its food and drink, and its ability to realise that ambition. On the corner of a quiet residential street, it looks like just another smart local pub until you read the menu. Game is central, for example a four-course grouse menu where the birds are served with roast pumpkin, wild blackberries and smoked bacon. British seasonal produce is always to the fore, such as buttermilk pudding served with victoria plums and toasted cobnuts. The details are always just-so; head chef Stephen Williams is an alumni of chef Brett Graham at The Ledbury, who is a co-owner of this pub with TV chef Mike Robinson of the acclaimed Pot Kiln gastropub in rural Berkshire. Robinson is a deer hunter and game enthusiast, which explains oddities such as the venison scotch eggs on the bar menu, the yolk still runny inside . Despite the accomplished cooking that is the envy of most of London’s new-wave British restaurants, this is still a proper pub, not just a restaurant. A good selection of real ales is pulled at the bar, and the stripy-shirted staff are exceedingly jolly and welcoming. The prices are very fair for such excellent cooking, and the mark-ups on the thoughtfully created wine list aren’t greedy either. Read more
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RUNNER UP: Bull & Last
168 Highgate Road, Kentish Town, NW5 1QS
The Bull & Last looks like a classic London gastropub with its shabby chic interior, blackboard menu over the bar, and array of mismatched tables and chairs. But be warned, this isn’t somewhere you can just pop into for a pint then order some food. Tables are reserved for diners; drinkers compete for the small number of bar stools, or have to squat at diners’ seats until they arrive to claim their places. As such, it’s more restaurant than pub, but the exceptional food and laid-back, friendly atmosphere make it worth booking in advance. The charcuterie is made on the premises, including the dark slivers of duck ‘prosciutto’. Main courses also show the talent in the kitchen, for example the slow-cooked pig cheeks, served in a bowl with a slab of boulanger potatoes; very French, and rich with the intense, browned-meat flavours of the Maillard reaction. We’ve always found the service accomodating and charming, but make sure you book a seat first. Read more
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RUNNER UP: Britannia
360 Victoria Park Road, Victoria Park, E9 7BT
On the edge of Victoria Park, a revolution stirs. This grand old Victorian pub has been spruced up to cater for all sorts of diners and drinkers, from families enjoying the garden barbecues and the kids’ menu, through to smart dining in the tucked-away dining room. Britishness is celebrated in everything from the decor (Victoriana and framed adventure comics from the 1950s) to the local ales (Meantime, and a few guest ales). Ingredients are mainly British, but the dishes in the dining room less so. The startling patterns of mackerel skin signals fat fillets of the fish draped over roasted potatoes with a warm fennel salad; roast lamb is served with salsa verde. The roast Sunday lunches are more traditional. The Britannia tries to cater to all comers, and mostly it succeeds. Read more
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RUNNER UP: Cadogan Arms
298 King's Road, Chelsea, SW3 5UG
The latest link in a chain of above-average gastropubs and British-leaning restaurants by the Martin Brothers (of The Gun, Botanist et al). It now has a rus in urbe look, complete with stuffed animal heads on the walls, yet somehow it doesn’t look too ridiculous in Chelsea. The front part is still a pub with proper real ales, while towards the back is the main dining area. We’ve always found the dishes expertly cooked and attractively presented, from a vivid green pea soup, garnished with pancetta, double cream and microgreens to a fillet of pan-fried trout, balanced on a firm risotto studded with broad beans. There’s also a commendable selection of wines by the glass, and the service on our visits has been exemplary. Read more
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Best New Restaurant | Best New Italian | Best New Cheap Eats | Best New Gastropub | Best New Bar | Best New Local Restaurant | Best New Café | Best New Design | Best Spanish Restaurant | Best Spanish Wine List-
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17 comments
Lola Rojo is not really spanish. it is catalan. They do rices for British taste that do not exist in Spain, portions ae tiny, the atmosphere is depressing. It is miles away from the real thing you will find in Spain. It just shows how terrible Spanish food is in London. Sad "taste" of things.
Glaring omission in Best Spanish - Barrafina. Judging by the queues and all great reviews, including in Timeout and by its readers.
Confused by those who don't think Princi is not cheap? Fairly large portion of pretty good pasta or salad is £6-7, which is probably the most expensive thing in there. Pretty good tasting food and nice looking place. Pretty good value for money if you ask me. Ok, it's not as cheap as your local sandwich shop or greasy spoon, but come on. How cheap is cheap eats suppose to be?
I was disappointed with the Spanish Restaurants winner too. I frequent Tapas Variadas on Northcote Road, just metres down the road from La Rioja. The food is much more value for money (try the huge seafood platter for only £9) and the lovely little restaurant, quaint. I ve been to Lola Rioja, and found the atmosphere a little pretentious and the food overpriced for what you are given.
I agree that the "Best Cheap Eats" selection is pretty disappointing this year. I always relied on Time Out to help me discover real gems, not restaurants which have been well advertised and, quite frankly, aren't exactly groundbreaking discoveries.
Re Albion at the Boundary: good for brunch but not "cheap" (I'd go to E Pellicci any time instead! that's authentic and cheap). Not so good if you fancy well cooked comfort food: my cauliflower cheese was so crunchy that I had trouble cutting through it. I didn't even manage to finish it, incredible really as I was (a) extremely hungry and (b) in dire need of said comfort.
Please, Time Out, don't let us down next year!
the thing is that pretty much everywhere in london is a rip off.
you want value for money? go to capitan corelli in battersea park road. real italian as you could find in italy 30 yrs ago in small towns.
Great food, cakes to die for and a good cup of coffee. It's hard to beat The Fleet. I go there regularly, the foods always delicious, there's plenty of seating and there's always a buzz about the place , the atmosphere is friendly and relaxed certainly not lacking!
It is worth trying Harwood Arms! Great food (delicious soup as a starter) and friendly service, although a bit on the pricey side. Funny how everyone looks like they just left their houses in Westport, CT. Bocca di Lupo continues to be my favorite so far!
I found both Giaconda and Boundary rather disappointing. Great ingredients no doubt, and competent kitchen skills, which makes it even strager as to why the end result in both was a bit flat. Not sure the British 'food revolution' has helped much - people cook more and better, restaurants cook less and simpler, and thw two have ended up meeting in the middle somewhat. Do i need to spend £18 for someone to grill a chop for me?
And why 2 specifically Spanish categories?
I'm very sorry timeout, but Giaconda Dining Rooms was a massive disapointment to me. Difficult to create atmosphere in such a small space and food capable, but not exciting. I took my partner for his birthday having read the reviews on this site and had to apologise to him halfway through the meal... Maybe I missed something.
I have two things to say about these results.
Firstly 39 Colbrooke Row is a terrible little place full of cheap furniture and dirty toilets. Yes the barman is great and the cocktails fun but it's not fun spilling half of it on a wobbly table.
Secondly - Albion Caff Bakery - Christ Almighty, if these cakes are good I would not like to taste a Time Out rubbish-rated example. These may have to be some of the worst cakes I have ever eaten. YUK.
Come on Time Out, you are not exactly surprising us and encouraging us to grab our coats and scarper to a new exciting gem. Yawn!
Agree with Princi not being cheap. Maybe if you wanna eat three raviolis (and get a not-so-kind look when you ask for cheese)...
I agree with Anthony. Princi is not cheap!!
The Harwood is my local and, in my view a well deserved winner. IIt's a great mix of quirky and traditional english food....and always beautifully cooked and presented:)
concerns me when there are an awful lot of negative reviews about lola roja how it could win best spanish hmmmm??