• Subterranean Sensations!

  • By Alan Rutter


  • 13 Fino
    The sheer spaciousness of this Spanish restaurant makes it bright and airy despite its subterranean setting.The tapas runs from caperberries and toasted almonds through to foie gras with chilli jam.
    Fino, 33 Charlotte St, W1T 1RR (020 7813 8010) Goodge St tube.

    14 Food for Thought
    Sitting incongruously among the trendy boutiques and shoe shops of Neal Street, this unpretentious, vegetarian stalwart does tasty soups, stir-fries and salads, and is brilliant value for money. The lunchtime takeaway queues are long for a reason.
    Food for Thought, 31 Neal St, WC2H 9PR (020 7836 9072) Covent Garden tube.

    15 The Bleeding Heart Feature continues

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    This softly lit, congenial cellar bar is owned by Adnams, and as well as quality beer it boasts an obscenely long wine list (450 at the last count) – including bottles from the firm’s vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. The first pub on this site opened in 1746, and the place oozes history. Appetising food is served upstairs, and the Gallic bistro is across the cobbled courtyard.
    The Bleeding Heart, Bleeding Heart Yard, 19 Greville St, EC1N 8SJ (020 7404 0333) Farringdon tube/rail.

    16 Quirinale
    Rabble-rousing parliamentarians give this creamy-coloured Westminster restaurant a vote of confidence. Fine regional cooking, a stupendous cheese list and four house wines to debate mean that while Quirinale might be set underground, it certainly hits the heights for Italian cuisine in London.
    Quirinale, North Court, 1 Great Peter St, SW1P 3LL (020 7222 7080) St James’s Park or Westminster tube.

    17 Tate Britain Restaurant
    This smart eatery is also a gallery in itself– its four walls covered with a specially commissioned Rex Whistler mural, amusingly titled ‘The Expedition in Pursuit of Rare Meats’. The short menu changes regularly but always offers British classics. The desserts are a particular treat – bread and butter pudding, apple crumble and cheescake. The perfect accompaniment to a leisurely browse round the gallery above.
    Tate Britain Restaurant, Millbank, SW1 4RG (020 7887 8825) Pimlico tube.

    18 Hakkasan
    Don’t expect chewy prawn crackers or an all you-can-eat buffet at this opulent Chinese restaurant. The high prices reflect the quality on offer; it was only the fifth Chinese restaurant ever to be awarded a Michelin star. Its unlikely location off Hanway Street makes it a real find. The drinks can play second fiddle to the exceptional food, but it’s worth ducking beyond the slatted wooden partition and into the classy confines of the bar. The Hakkatini (Grey Goose l’Orange, Campari, Grand Marnier) and the Saketini (saké, Hendrick’s gin, Rain vodka) are dangerously easy to guzzle.
    Hakkasan, 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF 020 7927 7000) Tottenham Court Rd tube.

    19 The Asylum
    Easy to miss, The Asylum is parked under a now empty newsagent’s on the corner of Rathbone Place and Percy Street (next to Bam-Bou). Down the metal staircase is a small bar that plays host to a bewildering array of events – hip hop nights, art installations, comedy and live punk, to name but a few. You could phone ahead to find out what’s on, but it’s just as much fun piling downstairs and discovering for yourself when you get there.
    The Asylum, 28 Rathbone Place, W1P 1DJ (020 7636 8228) Tottenham Court Rd tube.


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