Jamie Oliver’s original Fifteen has rebranded itself as British under St John-alumnus chef Jon Rotherham, though its not-for-profit ethos – training disadvantaged apprentices in the culinary arts – remains constant. There’s no longer a restaurant/trattoria divide over the two floors (street level and basement) and the menu is now mainly small plates, with a few mains. What hasn’t changed is the approach: fine ingredients, treated without fuss, to be enjoyed.
On a recent visit, good stuff started with breads (carrying a £4 price tag), served with ‘farmhouse butter’ and ‘chicken butter’, the latter a rustic, meaty melding of chicken fat and chicken morsels into the butter. Spare presentation and a retro feel came with devilled egg and smoked anchovy: lovely brown, salty mayonnaise piped into the halved hard-boiled eggs, joined by halved radishes (leaves and all). A summer salad, with many unusual leaves, had a rather salty dressing, while cuttlefish, courgette and herb vinaigrette was a perfect combination. A faultless main course followed: grilled salmon with baby beets and crème fraîche. Fellow diners were tucking into the hallmark roast chicken for two with gusto. To finish, lemon meringue pie packed a vibrantly lemony punch. Great food.
Our only criticism? It was impossible to enter the disabled toilet without one of our party rising from the table.
Fifteen promises to deliver an unforgettable fine dining experience, whether you're hosting an intimate gathering, or a feast for a hundred people.
The bar at Fifteen, now recognised on London's gin map, serves some of the finest gin-based cocktails around, as well as a wide range of craft beers and carefully selected wines. It's an ideal spot for an evening out with friends, work colleagues and clients.
Set up in 2002, the restaurant prides itself on social enterprise, training apprentices in the kitchen and helping them to further their career in the culinary world.