The furnishings here change regularly, as befits a restaurant in a store that’s synonymous with high fashion. It seemed to be a tent theme when we went, and with flowers aplenty on display, the top-floor space looked great. So did the food, which was mostly of a very high standard. On the two-course set menu, called ‘Season’, only mains are printed, with regularly changing starters divided into vegetarian, meat and shellfish.
We loved everything in the first course, a deconstructed and completely delicious steak tartare, and perfectly poached sea trout served with wasabi crème fraîche. Mains were more mixed. Roast duck with chanterelles and a carrot and nutmeg purée was a wonderful combination, the duck timed precisely, but grilled polenta with wild mushrooms included a wedge of brie that was simply redundant – the dish would have been fine without it.
Puddings are mostly designed for people who don’t need to worry about getting into their slinkiest Prada mini-dress. Banoffi and milk candy pie was a little gummy, yet tasted great. The wine list is taken from Harvey Nicks’ retail list, which is one of London’s best and caters well for people on limited budgets. Service was warm and efficient throughout.