Though your waistband might complain, your conscience need not as all the fish at this great little London chippy are sustainably sourced, with coley topping the bill. And that ethical alternative to haddock and cod is popular for good reason: it more than passed muster, with flaky and tender flesh beneath a perfect honey-coloured batter. The twice-fried chips were good too: chunky yet crisp. Perhaps the chilli and garlic sauce on our whole bream was a little overpowering, but only because the fish beneath was delicately fresh, and in no need of adornment. Potted crab, smoked sprats and meat pies take their place on the menu alongside the likes of beetroot salad, beer-battered halloumi and sweet-potato chips, making for an interesting mix of the modern and the retro. Only the unsubtle aquarium-style decor misses the mark – but you’ll be enjoying your fish too much to notice.