Garbo's

Time Out says

Tue Dec 15 2009

With its blue awning and folk-art window decorations, Garbo’s – named after actress Greta – promises a taste of traditional Swedish home life rather than movie star sophistication. Even IKEA’s Scandi-modern design seems a foreign country here, so no surprise that most customers on our visit were elderly expats. A cheeky stuffed moose with viking helmet oversees proceedings in the small, elongated dining room, exuding more confidence than the shy but sweet staff. Sunday lunch kicks off with a small smörgåsbord. Dishes on the mini buffet range from the sublime (gorgeous plump herring several ways, fresh potato salad flecked with parsley) to the ridiculous (crabstick, sliced cheese, cucumber, and green and yellow peppers tossed together – were they cleaning out the fridge?). The bread basket (sliced baguette, soft seeded bread and a few rye crispbreads) gave little evidence of the glories of Swedish bakery. To follow, there’s the likes of kåldolmar (cabbage rolls with meatball-like pork and beef filling and gravy) and decently rendered wiener schnitzel, both with uninspiring boiled veg of the type you’d expect at old Aunt Helga’s. Finnish and Swedish lagers and cider provide a pleasant diversion from the simple wine list.