This Regent’s Park café has two delineated areas for either counter or table service, with each sporting an oasis-like garden surrounded by tall flora. If it’s wet, you’ll have to plump for the no-frills 1960s aesthetic indoors, though this barely matters if you’re opting for a quick-stop sandwich, salad or soup – or a slice of seedy beetroot sponge (one of a strong selection of cakes) – at the self-service station. For a more formal meal in the dining room, you’re best insisting on a snug window-side table and directing your gaze outdoors.
Company of Cooks manages the menu here, which bears both stars and duds. The chilli con carne, for example, was disappointing and unremarkable, but the perfectly grilled mackerel with samphire was a salty hit. This mix of pub standards (sticky toffee pudding) and interesting seasonal fare (gooseberry and elderflower crumble) is presumably designed to suit all tastes, and proof of success comes in the shape of a packed house during the park’s Open Air Theatre season.