We usually adore this cool evocation of Sicily in Soho and the bustle suggests other Londoners have taken Gelupo to heart too. Yet we were disappointed in the flavours on our most recent visit. Kiwi with gin and elderflower tasted of little except elderflower; coconut gelato had a cloying soapy quality, while watermelon with cinnamon and jasmine smacked of floral toiletries.
We should have stuck with Gelupo classics, such as black forest cherry and chocolate, blood-orange granita or one of the ewe’s milk ricotta ices – you can at least be guaranteed of a great range of flavours. Service is zippy. Italian biscuits and cakes, coffee, gourmet sandwiches and an appealing selection of groceries make Gelupo a handy spot to know year round. Late closing puts it high on the list of things to do after an outing to the theatre, cinema or pub.