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Gerrard’s Corner is the kind of Chinese restaurant that feels like it’s been around for ever. Set in the beating heart of Chinatown on the corner of Wardour and Gerrard Streets, this large, bustling dining room is properly old-school and unpretentious. Think neat, white tablecloths, slightly scuffed red carpets and big round banquet tables packed out with regulars.
Although they serve up a host of classics, the dim sum dumplings are the stars of the menu. Packed with fresh filling, the casing of my plump, sweet prawn and chive number achieved the perfect balance between elasticity and translucency – a dumpling Holy Grail. The rich crabmeat version that followed was even better, served with a whole scallop balanced on top and cut through with sweet, clean cucumber. One warning: avoid the fried dishes on this menu; they’re pretty greasy and can’t compete with their steamed cousins.
This is the kind of rough Chinatown diamond I wish I’d always known about, so on leaving, I asked how long it had been open. No one knew. The fact is, you don’t really need to. Embrace the time warp – you’ll be going here for ever.