Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Fri Nov 2 2012
In October 2012, this restaurant reopened, reconfigured – with the kitchen (and loo) upgraded. By the end of November, the dining room will be also significantly extended through the back of the building. The new look is a disappointment though, with lighting that would better suit a dentist's waiting room, hard seats, landlord carpet, and small tables that are packed too closely together.
Chef Paul Merrony's cooking remains on course. It is often traditional and strongly French-influenced. The prices are now notably high for what was once a charming little bistro: starters around £7, main courses mostly around £18-£22, and puddings around £6 – and that's not including a £1.50 cover charge.
The starters were a highlight: eggs baked en cocotte with spinach, cheese and cream showed how the simplest dishes are often the best; while a crumble of shallots and mushrooms was equally delightful, served with a bowl of whipped cream given an added kick of horseradish.
The main courses were less impressive. A t-bone of veal was correctly cooked, bot not served as described on the menu: instead of creamed spinach, the dish that arrived was meat and two veg (carrot and potato). Ox tongue, however, is more typical of Merrony’s skill with meat dishes: the strongly-flavoured offal topped with a lentil and parsley salad, plus salsa verde for sharpness.
The wine service was poor. Only two wines – one house red and one house white – were on offer by the glass on our visit. Our waiter incorrectly described them, insisting the producer name was a region, patronising us in the process.
Based on this visit, the Giaconda’s enigmatic smile seems to have turned to a rictus. We sincerely hope the service picks up and the joyless ambience improves, because the Giaconda used to be one of the most enjoyable places to eat in the West End.
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