Gilak
© Britta Jaschinski
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 12 2012
Iranian restaurants aren’t known for their culinary variation, which makes the regional emphasis of this north London outpost all the more commendable. The menu focuses on dishes from the Gilan region of northern Iran, a cluster of coastal towns bordering the Caspian Sea. It’s an area that also influences the restaurant’s decor, minimal though this is – a fishing net strung across the ceiling, a few framed prints of boats and Iranian beaches.
The single, caff-sized room holds only a handful of tables and chairs. Staff on our visit were happy to explain some of the more obscure dishes, including the ‘Gilak special’ starter, a hunk of smoked mackerel served with walnuts and broad beans, which are then rolled together in bread to create an interesting combination of flavours and textures.
We also loved the sour-sweet contrast of zeytoon parvardeh (green olives in a punchy walnut and pomegranate marinade). A main of lemon and saffron-marinated joojeh chicken kebab was moist and flavoursome, but it was the regional morgh-e torsh that stole the show: a side of chicken in a sour herb and lemon sauce served with saffron-tinted rice.
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