Hedone

Restaurants

Restaurants and cafés

301-303 Chiswick High Road

Expensive

Hedone Tricia De Courcy Ling

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Wed Oct 17 2012

The cosy, sensual decor of Mikael Jonsson’s characterful spot is a welcome change from the pearlised leather and silver vases of more uptight haute cuisine establishments. Deep-filled brown suede cushions, primitive-style paintings, and open brick- and stonework hit the right smart-casual tone for this unglamorous niche of the A315, but Hedone is not without pretensions.

A continuing irritant is the wine list, which offers scant choice under £40 per bottle. The limited selection on the daily changing menu, however, is far more pleasurable; in essence, guests come to experience Jonsson’s response to the finest produce available each morning. The price rises according to the number of courses ordered. As a bonus, you don’t have to offer companions a taste because they’re eating the same thing.

Meals begin with own-made rustic bread of stunning deliciousness, served with such a generous hand it’s difficult not to eat too much. Superb dishes on our summertime visit were a bulbous, tender poached oyster served in the shell with apple foam; a pretty assembly of slow-cooked duck’s yolk with fresh almonds, girolles, apricot and white mayonnaise; and roast pigeon (its claws underlining the kitchen’s uncompromising tone) with beetroot and cherries.

Less pleasing was john dory with seaweed emulsion; magnifying glasses might have helped identify the rubbery scrap of fish swimming in tidal gloop. Desserts are OK – meringue discs stacked with lemon custard, lemon gel and accompanied by lemon sorbet, for example – but the kitchen’s prime skill is in starter-style dishes and a few spartan mains.

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Address:
Hedone 301-303 Chiswick High Road
London
W4 4HH

Phone:
020 8747 0377
Website:
www.hedonerestaurant.com
Opening hours:
Lunch served 12.30-2.15pm Fri, Sat. Dinner served 6.30-10pm Tue-Sat
Transport:
Tube: Chiswick Park tube
Price:
Set lunch £19 2 courses. £25 3 courses. Set dinner £50 4 courses, £60 5 courses; £75 tasting menu (£134 incl wine)
Map
1. Hedone
  - 301-303 Chiswick High Road
    London
    W4 4HH
  - 020 8747 0377
  - www.hedonerestaurant.com
  - 51.492543,-0.267632

Facilities:
Eating and drinking facilities. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Available for hire
Occasions:
Eating out. Creative cooking. Fine dining. Unique. Unique London
Type of event:
Parties

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(14 ratings)

"It tastes like s#*t! I LOVE IT!" the man in red chinos and blue blazer proclaimed from across the room as I too had tasted the Grouse and offal gravy. Indeed. Yes, it did taste like that, but no, I did not love it. I simply did not get this meal. Especially the slither of onion and wafer thin slice of pear that constituted a whole course for *just* an additional tenner. There's no doubt that the guy can source ingredients, but this menu did not please.

FBM. Tue Sep 6 2011
Rated as: 1/5
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