Tricia De Courcy Ling
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Posted: Wed Sep 25 2013
It may seem nothing more than a pleasant neighbourhood eaterie on a suburban high street, but the first restaurant from former solicitor and food blogger Mikael Jonsson is remarkable in many ways. Given that Scandinavian cooking is in the ascendancy, much is made of his Swedish background, but the menu isn’t overtly Nordic: more Modern European, with impeccable seasonality.
The stall was set out by the amuse-bouches – savoury petits fours of morello jelly on a parmesan wafer, smoked haddock tart and foie gras in a sourdough crisp – and a pre-starter of seaweed on savoury custard: rich, intriguing flavours and textures. One dish, of French white asparagus with tarragon hollandaise, green asparagus and romaine lettuce purée, was gloopy and not good; asparagus was better served with crispy duck-egg yolk, egg white mayonnaise and morels, prettily arranged on a large black plate. From there it was pleasure all the way: duck on a giblet sauce with five types of beetroot was sweet, earthy and clove-pungent, beetroot at its fullest expression.
Cumbrian salt marsh lamb, conversely, was served simply to allow its flavours to sing. A herb sorbet that channelled Indian chutney, a chocolate dessert layered at different temperatures with a crust of powdered raspberry, and subtle petits fours, provided more palate-stretching flavours. It’s a lot to ask of wine to keep up, and only one of our choices did: a £20 glass of small-domaine biodynamic Jura pinot noir.
Hedone 301-303 Chiswick High Road
- Venue phone:
020 8747 0377
- Venue website:
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Thur-Sat. Dinner served 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Thur; 6.30-10pm Fri, Sat
Tube: Chiswick Park
Set lunch £35 3 courses; £55 tasting menu (£114 incl wine); £85 tasting menu (£164 incl wine). Set dinner (Tue-Thur) £55 3 courses; £75 tasting menu (£144 incl wine); £95 tasting menu (£174 tasting menu)
- 301-303 Chiswick High Road
- 020 8747 0377
- 301-303 Chiswick High Road
Average User Rating
2.7 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:0
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:5
- 1 star:2
We went to Hedone several times. The cusine is high quality and very creative. The staff is very friendly and always ready to share about the products or the wine. The chef interacts with customers as the kitchen is open onto the dining room. I do not understand where the bad comments and ratings come from! Maybe some people only appreciate more traditional food...They have obtained a Michelin star and I guess it says something.
The best ingredients in London. Worth going just for the outstanding bread. Dishes are deceptively simple here e.g. one sauce that i had took three stages and four days to make. The menu changes regularly and it is actually a relative bargain given the very high food costs e.g. the vegetables are imported from Paris twice a week.
My husband and me visited the much-raved Hedone for dinner. We were expecting a fairly good meal, but were left disappointed. We ordered a 4-course meal (I am glad we chose not go for the 5-course / 7-course instead). The amuse bouche was nice and the umami starter was interesting. The bread was superb with the butter. After a fairly good start, we were excited for the food to come. My husband's oysters were brilliantly presented and tasted as good. While I was left with a tasteless dish of asparagus. Though the vegetable looked fresh, but had no salt or seasoning whatsoever. My husband's second course of egg, peas and morels could have tasted better with more than 4 pcs of tiny colonata...it was fresh but again with no salt. My second course the sole was overcooked and tasted more like over-cooked chicken breast. I love fish and i love it when its perfectly cooked. This was a huge disppointment from such a restaurant, as the cooking did not in any way justify the freshness of the fish. For main course, my husband had beef, which he said was of great quality. But my Skate wing even though was cooked fine ( and thankfully so), lacked any flavour whatsoever. The only saving grace was the artichokes served with the fish. There was no salt/seasoning and the quantity of sauce was very less. I could not even manage to finish it. The desserts and petit four were of excellent quality. The service was good and our server Aurelie was very friendly. Though we were asked about the meal, but it seemed very cursory. The chef did not seem to show much interest in interacting with the customers. I would certainly not recommend this restaurant, as the food was flavour-less. I understand the ingredients were of high quality, but their treatment did not appeal to the palate. As a customer, I appreciate the use of high quality ingredients, but all i expect is good taste. I am sure of not visiting the restaurant again, and feel upset about spending so much for a dull meal.
We were so disappointed with this place. Whilst the service was fantastic the food left a lot to be desired. It was bland and uninspiring. The wine list offers little choice and is over priced. I would never recomend this place to anyone. Can't see it staying open for much longer...
I went to this restaurant with very high expectations, only to be disappointed. The chef aspires to be a new Heston or Sat Bains but unfortunately fails. The quality of the cooking is generally good (for example scallops were cooked perfectly), but the flavour combinations often don't work. Chicory in combination with scallops was overpoweringly bitter. Apple millefeuille the pastry was overcooked and tasted burnt, as this was the majority of the desert it spoilt the whole thing. Definitely not worth the money. Wine list is limited and most are very expensive.
I'm pleased that the reviewers who didn't like their evenings at Hedone will be staying away (it sounds as though they will be happier at Harvester or McDonalds). It increases the chance that people like me, who have appreciate really good food and attentive but unobtrusive service, will be ablle to book a table with planning too many months ahead. The menu structure is inspired, the flavours beautifully balanced - and incidentally AA Gill was spot on when he raved about the pear and onion! And, while not cheap, the overall result is decent value. This is a great addition to the restaurant scene in West London. I will back, again, and again, and again!
First let me say what the stars are for. The deer was superb and portion size generous but the vegetable accompaniment was meager. I felt the balance was wrong as I like vegetables. The chocolate slice pudding was memorable perfection in taste, texture and size.. The service was good except in the important area of responding to my friends comments about the beef which was too rare for his taste and cold. This comment was simply ignored. Personally I don't want to be told to have two starters and we all (six) began to feel the victims of a food hoax as we ate the tiny slithers of pear and onion put before us. What was AA Gill on when he raved about this absolutely unremarkable dish. My husband found the excessive onion to pear ratio too much and he will eat most things. He left half of this tiny dish which the waiter took away without concern or comment.
Sat down at 20:48, finally got the bill at 23:40. Service was very slow, had to ask for them to serve the wine 20 minutes after they showed us the bottle. Pleasant staff when they came. Foodwise, we went for the six courses. Cévennes onions and pear shavings was delicate; wild Dorset seabass sashimi completely tasteless; slow cooked hen egg with Scottish girolles was tasty; steamed wild Dorset turbot with cockles and cavalo nero does not linger in the memory. For main course I had beef with horseradish and endive. The beef was rare and succulent, the horseradish was bland and without bite (the neighbouring table thought it was polenta). My wife had dover sole which was deep in flavour but on the bone and a bit of a challenge to get off. For dessert, peppery dark chocolate with orange and tangerine was dense and indulgent, whereas the poached raspberries with faisselle and llemon ice-cream were unremarkable. Our babysitter called during dessert to remind us it was a school night and so we did not have time for coffee. We spent the thick end of £300 for two (we did have a bottle of St. Aubin and a carafe of Vacqueyras, and I had a plate of cheese) and left disappointed. We were also surprised when, having said we found a couple of the dishes very bland, the waiter merely nodded and departed..the chef came out to the floor a few times to other tables but not to us to ask us why we thought that.
"It tastes like s#*t! I LOVE IT!" the man in red chinos and blue blazer proclaimed from across the room as I too had tasted the Grouse and offal gravy. Indeed. Yes, it did taste like that, but no, I did not love it. I simply did not get this meal. Especially the slither of onion and wafer thin slice of pear that constituted a whole course for *just* an additional tenner. There's no doubt that the guy can source ingredients, but this menu did not please.