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High Timber sits a hop, skip and a jump from the Millennium Bridge, with views across to the Globe Theatre and Tate Modern. It’s neutral and modern in looks, with a low ceiling, plate-glass windows and plain wooden furniture – though the anonymity is enlivened by some striking art (for sale) on the walls.The restaurant’s South African ownership is evident in the wine list and occasional ingredient, but otherwise it’s a straightforward menu of mainly meaty fare that will appeal to a clientele dominated (at lunch, at least) by City males.
Sirloin and ribeye steaks – made with top-notch, 28-day-matured Cumbrian beef – are the focus; assorted sauces range from traditional béarnaise to biltong butter. Alternatives include roast veal, boar sausage or burger and chips, but the kitchen also has a deft touch with fish: fillet of bream with an earthy pearl barley and herb pesto was perfectly cooked. This came from the set lunch: good value, though, rather oddly, the sole ‘dessert’ choice was cheese (a decent comte). Twice-cooked chips were excellent too – though there weren’t enough of them. Staff did their job, but without much charm.