A much-needed makeover has enlivened this affordable offshoot of upmarket Indian restaurant Tamarind. The bland decor has been replaced with exposed brickwork, school-style tables and trendy hanging lights, giving the place a cool industrial vibe. A new menu features small plates of South Asian regional favourites.
We liked the naan pie – an Anglo-Indian interpretation of shepherd’s pie made with tender chunks of garlicky lamb, buttery mash and a surprise topping of crisp-baked naan. Plump southern prawns, stir-fried with caramelised onion paste, spiked with chilli and ginger and finished with bites of green peppercorns, was another star dish. Even the weighty Punjabi samosa, filled with cumin-spiced potatoes, was pimped up with creamy yoghurt streaked with fresh mint chutney and sweet tamarind sauce.
Sadly, the Indo-Chinese marrow dumplings didn’t hit the spot – although simmered in a tangy toasted garlic and chilli sauce, they were let down by a raw cornflour aftertaste. But slow-cooked railway lamb curry, with its tender braised meat and pungent fried onion masala, was enjoyable.
Soho’s media set seem to approve of the new incarnation, but staff need to get to grips with the menu.