Oriental fire meets the subtler seasonings typical of the Horn of Africa, by way of standard breakfast fry-ups, in this multifunctional Vauxhall café. The split personality is down to the fact that Kitfo House is essentially an Eritrean restaurant that likes to make the most of its Thai chef at lunchtime. The Thai options are cheaper than the African ones: powerfully flavoured kaeng pa (jungle curry), served with a mound of rice, costs just £5.50.
The Eritrean version of scrambled eggs, jumbled with green chillies and chopped tomatoes, is a gloriously tasty dish. It can be served with pitta, or, like the rest of the Eritrean specials, with a whole basket of rolled-up injera (spongy and slightly sour: the national bread) that you use as a scoop or plate. Vegetarians can choose delicious messes of spinach, lentils and cottage cheese, while meat eaters are wowed by tender beef stewed in spices – the restaurant’s namesake dish. As a grand finale, treat yourself to the Eritrean coffee ceremony: it’s a heady and stimulating experience, with incense and popcorn as the trimmings.