It might sound a bit like something you’d hear Dick Van Dyke singing in Mary Poppins, but you won’t find much chimney sweeping going on at Kimchinary. Instead, this is the street food stall of Swedish burrito-meister Hanna Söderlund who fuses Hispanic street food with Korean ingredients. These include kimchi – Korean-style spicy, fermented Chinese cabbage – which features in just about every dish on offer. Hence the name.
With this many nationalities involved in one wrap, you might be wondering whether the UN conflict resolution team should get involved, but that won’t be necessary. This mix definitely works, and there’s a Mexican wave of devotees ready to agree.
It’s not just a load of old cabbage either. Along with kimchi-piqued rice, the burritos are filled with sweet and salty soy-braised ox cheek, or spicy confit pork belly. This is layered with own-made Korean chilli paste (gochujang), coleslaw, sour cream and grated cheddar, then wrapped in a tortilla and toasted. Veggies are also catered for with a grilled aubergine with braised greens version.
While some street-food traders can be harder to pin down than Dick Van Dyke’s accent, Kimchinary can be found at Kerb King’s Cross every Friday (noon-2pm). You can currently catch them at Street Feast London, too (Dalston Yard, Hartwell St, E8 3DU. Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight).
Hanna Söderlund’s got the Mexican-Korean burrito all wrapped up.
By Celia Plender