Kipferl

We’re fond of this Austrian café/restaurant, but it seems to have become a bit complacent. What’s listed on the menu isn’t always what appears on the plate, and too many dishes lack flavour.

A starter of smoked trout on toasted rye bread and cranberry horseradish emerged from the kitchen as a bland, supermarket-style fish, on a mountain of cream lightly tinged with cranberry and horseradish, plus a few fingers of bread. Beef goulash with spätzle (egg noodles) was OK, but had no depth of flavour, and the spätzle could have used a little more butter. Spinach dumplings with organic mountain cheese from Vorarlberg and green salad was tastier. Best was kaiserschmarrn – thick chunks of pancake, served with raisins and a little pot of morello cherries – though we wished the cherries had been served hot, as advertised.

The short wine list has some reasonably priced Austrian wines (also available to take away) – but don’t get too comfortable; the place closes at 10pm, and staff start clearing up well before, making it clear that diners should pay up and leave. Service is otherwise helpful, but on current showing, these light, modern premises are more suited to their daytime café existence, offering plates of sausage and sauerkraut, cakes (apple strudel, cheesecake), and coffees (served the Austrian way, with a glass of water and a little chocolate).