Kitchen

A newcomer to Edgware’s bustling kosher scene, the Kitchen occupies a corner site with a light, wooden interior. Slate-tiled walls, comfortable leather chairs and more light (sparkling from the ceiling) complete the picture. The menu, brought by pleasant staff, is extensive – ranging from brunch to main meals, and ending with a selection of teas. This is a hotspot for meat eaters, offering chicken wings or satay for starters, as well as rather weak ‘Jewish penicillin’ (chicken soup with matzo balls).

Burgers are juicy and filling, served with good chips; grills include lamb chops, kebabs and steak. A rack of smokehouse short ribs was tender yet overwhelmed by spicy barbecue sauce. Venturing away from the conventional, you could try a burger with goose breast, ‘fakon’ (fake bacon) or ‘soya cheese’ in sandwiches. Watching happy families eating Sunday lunch made us eager to return and try tempting options such as Israeli shakshuka (eggs, peppers and tomatoes), chimichurri steak salad or grilled sea bass.

Portions are generous, so dessert might not appeal – and non-dairy tiramisu or crème brûlée seem ill-conceived. Chocolate soufflé is a possibility, though, and a lemon and passion-fruit sorbet made a refreshing end to an enjoyable meal.