La Bodega Negra
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Scott Wishart / Time Out
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La Bodega Negra
Michael Franke / Time Out
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
Beneath a lurid Soho shopfront, ablaze with neon signs screeching ‘sex shop’, is a new transatlantic import – the London outpost of the NYC-based La Esquina, an ultra-trendy downtown café-taqueria. As at La Esquina, La Bodega Negra is an upstairs-downstairs affair; the ground-level café (entrance on Moor Street) serves tacos, tostaditas and quesadillas, and mains such as huevos rancheros (ranch-style eggs) with black beans. The downstairs restaurant and bar (entrance in Old Compton Street) is where the main action happens – a vaulted space with intimate nooks, moody lighting, and décor that makes its own entertainment.
The most eye-catching space is what’s been dubbed the puppet room, lined with an incredible cardboard edge-of-the city landscape, created by Shoreditch set designer Eden, dotted with Day of the Dead Barbies and hung with wooden chairs. Elsewhere creative directors Serge Becker and Jason Volenec have installed such talking points as a grand piano upended and used as a room divider, a mirrored alcove, denim seat coverings, and anatomical posters, stockinged and suspendered and adorned with Mexican wrestling masks. It’s sexy but not scary, thrilling but relaxing.
As in the café, there’s a selection of tacos (our prawn and jicama version, in a crunchy, flavourful shell, was properly punchy) and tostaditas (such as moreish tuna with smoky chipotle and avocado). The menu extends to mains such as steaks and grills, and nicely spiced chicken paillard with pumpkin seeds, served with a green moat of pumpkin seed oil. The food is more akin to Mexican-American. And it’s spicy; many of the hundreds of types of chilli in Mexico put in an appearance here – raw in feisty salsas and slow-cooked in stews. The well-made margaritas make good tongue-tamers and fans of Mexican spirits will be in awe of the impressive list of tequilas and mezcals.
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