L'Absinthe
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Fri Sep 30 2011
This jolly spot dispenses bonhomie and joie de vivre by the bucketload, and wines by the glass, pot and bottle – with a very friendly policy of only charging shop price plus corkage on the latter. Good on them, for this was once considered an unlikely site (we remember eating Italian, Indian), but L’Absinthe has proved such a hit it’s expanded into the building next door, from where it now offers a traiteur, deli-café and takeaway foodstuffs.
The secret of success may lie in its lack of pretension – despite the Primrose Hill location, cooking is unfussy, the presentation homely and prices correspondingly keen. Opt for the set lunch menu, with its choice of two dishes per course, and dining is even cheaper. From the carte, beef bourguignon with mash was precisely that – no galette of celeriac or parmesan tuile to garnish. Marinated herring came with radicchio, shallot dressing and a disc of potato salad, but was otherwise another typically straightforward dish. We wish the béarnaise served with the steak frites hadn’t been left to stand so long before serving, but chocolate and coffee mousse was a paragon.
Consideration is given to quality British suppliers, with Chalk Farm smoked salmon and Marshfield organic ice-cream from the West Country among the discerning choices.
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