L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The multi-storey Robuchon complex (informal La Cuisine on the first floor, bar on the second and Atelier at ground level) is bang in the middle of the West End, but nothing about it says ‘London’. The Atelier is a link in a dozen-strong international chain from the French chef-restaurateur, all sharing the smart if slightly dated bento-box aesthetic of shiny reds and blacks, square central bar, low light and striking curio cabinets; this one has a feature wall of tumbling creeper. It’s a nightclub look that doesn’t play so well at lunchtime, when the crowd can be small.
They’re missing out: while Robuchon’s philosophy of season and terroir is no longer innovative, his standards and quality control remain high, and the set lunch, with the usual haute cuisine trappings, is the most economic way to sample it. An amuse-bouche of foie gras with a port reduction was a masterclass in taste and texture (and an advert for the considerably more expensive and sophisticated à la carte); the menu proper used simpler ingredients but with impeccable technique: a soft-boiled egg that melted into piperade and parsley oil with a snap of tuile and fizz of spice; an onglet that was impeccably cut and cooked and prettily served on lemony polenta. The wine list is the connoisseur’s document you’d expect, and the staff as able.
Special Offers
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Lunch: 2 courses £29
from a set menu (3 courses £35, 4 courses £40). Includes Vat, excludes service.
Offer valid until May 31 2013
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Lunch offer: 2 courses with matching wines £39
from a set menu (3 courses £50, 4 courses £60). Includes Vat, excludes service.
Offer valid until May 31 2013
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Pre theatre: 2 courses £29
from a set menu (3 courses £35, 4 courses £40). Also available with matching wines (2 courses £39, 3 courses £50 and 4 courses £60). Includes VAT, excludes service.
Offer valid until May 31 2013
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Post theatre: 2 courses £29
from a set menu (3 courses £35, 4 courses £40). Also available with matching wines (2 courses £39, 3 courses £50 and 4 courses £60). Includes VAT, excludes service.
Offer valid until May 31 2013
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