Le Gavroche

Time Out says

Tue Oct 16 2012

Given its setting, in a windowless basement with old-fashioned furnishings, you might not guess that this 46-year-old Mayfair stalwart is one of the capital’s hottest tickets, with its reservations book filled three months ahead. Testament to the power of television, ever since exec chef Michel Roux Junior (who took over from his father Albert in 1991) became a judge on Masterchef: The Professionals, his profile has gone stratospheric.

‘Le Gav’ now attracts a mixed crowd: refined silver-topped regulars from the early days, and day-trippers who have saved up for ‘sleb’ cooking, filling the dining room with exuberant cackles. And save you must: starters and puds hover at the £25 mark (each), while mains average £50. By contrast, the £52 set ‘business lunch’, for three courses, wine, water and coffee remains exceptional value, particularly as it comes with complimentary amuse-bouche and just-baked breads.

Cooking on our visit was sound, but not always spectacular. Most impressive was a tender roast guinea fowl nicely paired with a slab of creamy polenta, black olives adding to the intensity of the jus. A buttery piece of french toast with heady poached apricots, an almond-studded sugar snap and a dollop of amaretto ice-cream, took our breath away. On the other hand, a smoked eel starter was oddly topped with samphire, making it too salty, while a fillet of pollock with saffron aïoli, though well-judged, failed to excite.

Service, save for the premature pouring of a not-yet-brewed tea, was an unstuffy, well-oiled machine.