Lemonia

Abuzz with gossip, toasts and the hushed chatter of Primrose Hill ladies-who-lunch, this much-loved Greek-Cypriot stalwart has been in operation for more than 30 years – serving up souvláki to local celebs and glasses of Metaxa to homesick old boys. The menu is lengthy, spanning charcoal grills, seafood, oven-cooked taverna classics, vast mezédes selections and great-value weekday lunch specials.

Even in November, the plant-filled interior has an airy, summer-holiday vibe, and pavement tables are elevated to prime position the second the sun hits NW1. Don’t expect culinary innovation; instead, you’ll get well-executed dishes and top-quality meat and fish. Garlicky charred prawns and grilled sea bass were both cooked to perfection, while a fragrant plate of chicken with okra scored highly for authenticity with its rich sauce and subtle cinnamon kick.

The wine list leans heavily towards France, South Africa and the US, though there are a few Greek gems in there if you look hard enough; our ‘wine of the month’, moschofilero, proved a delicious accompaniment. The traditionally clad waiters are efficient and unobtrusive, and leisurely dining is encouraged. Just the job for an afternoon (or evening) pretending you’re back at that holiday island taverna.