If there’s one thing the Restaurant Privilege group enjoy, it’s change. Not content with running over a dozen restaurants (mostly in Chinatown, but also in Hampstead, Bayswater and the City) and dealing in various oriental cuisines, they also swap sites faster than tiles in a game of mah-jong. For the time being, you’ll find the first of the Leong’s Legends duo at this plum Chinatown address, just around the corner from Leong’s Legends II.
They offer a single concept: ‘Taiwanese’ cooking in tea house surrounds. In truth, the menus are dominated by Cantonese dishes, with just a sprinkling of Taiwanese options, but the decor delivers – doing away with white tablecloths and round tables in favour of dark woods and carved latticework. The cooking isn’t always as successful, with dim sum particularly unreliable: on our visit, not only was the pastry of steamed siu mai (usually a dense pork dumpling, this was a minced prawn version) on the dry side and the filling lacklustre, but it wasn’t even garnished properly. However, the full-flavoured one-bowl dishes (such as dark, sticky pork belly on a huge mound of steamed rice) offer terrific value, and are reason to visit alone.