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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
It may seem unfortunate that a prime site off Trafalgar Square is ardently French, but Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s homage to grand Parisian brasseries adds British class – and traditional afternoon teas – to the expected casserole of steak tartare and brass rails.
Diners sit on lustrous banquettes at tables featuring crisp linens and heavy cutlery. Plentiful staff in prim striped aprons know the menu, and bring dishes quick as a flash. Start with a William IV cup comprising ginger liqueur, cranberry juice, lemonade and fruit; a request for house red brought a gutsy tempranillo, almost port-like in intensity.
The carte ranges from hot dogs to foie gras, including wallet-friendly plats du jour such as fish pie and rabbit in mustard. A Josper grill churns out burgers, calf’s liver, andouillettes and more. We opted for perfectly cooked roast halibut with a green vegetable ‘salsa’ featuring on-trend seaweeds. Anyone not following an Atkins diet must add a £3.95 side dish such as the dreamy gratin dauphinoise.
Desserts are better than most in Paris; a long finger of Michelin-calibre gateau opera sang of dark caramel and espresso flavours. With brunch served only on Sundays, this is an all-day brasserie as long as your day begins at noon – pity, we’d like to see more of LDS’s waffles and french toast.
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