Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Apr 21 2010
It would be hard to imagine Soho without L’Escargot, and hard to imagine L’Escargot without its contingent of theatrical, media-savvy Soho-ites. It looks as good as ever, with its cut-glass mirrors, statement art by Chagall and Miro, and frankly beautiful art nouveau lighting, but times change – even at a snail’s pace – and we found the buzz a little quieter, and the kitchen a little less exciting. Upstairs, the lovely Picasso Room still trades in luxury ingredients and anniversary celebrations, while on the ground floor the more democratic bistro menu results in a livelier crowd of divorce-settlement gossipers and pre-theatre BlackBerry-checkers. We expected more to dazzle us, but it appeared to be running on automatic. At our meal downstairs, the menu was of the season, but not so much of the decade. A terrine of ham hock and foie gras was dry; and smoked salmon paupiette filled with salmon mousse was on the dated side of classic. Crisp-skinned sea bass on crushed potatoes was a treat; but gnocchi with wild mushrooms were little more than fried balls of mashed potato. The service is definitely of the efficient French variety, highly professional but rather aloof.
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