London House

  • Restaurants
  • Modern European
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© Charlie Richards
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© Jonathan Perugia
Chelsea
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The 1990s may have been all about Blair, Britpop and ‘Baywatch’, but in smart restaurants the trend was to stack up their food into towering, overblown shapes: timbales of seafood, stacks of polenta and twice-baked soufflés. We also ended up with Yorkshire puddings looking like David Hasselhoff. The well-stacked phase only lasted as long as the Hoff’s singing career, but in the latest Gordon Ramsay restaurant in 2014, I’m having a flashback. The rum baba struts its way into the room, permatan-bronzed, casting a long shadow across the sandy expanse of linen.

The atmosphere of London House in Battersea is a trip back to the ’90s. This is fine dining as it used to be, with the staff spiffingly well-dressed, roses on the tables, low lighting and diners dressed in their finest. Yet, apart from the alarmingly buff rum baba, the food on chef Anna Haugh-Kelly’s menu is perfectly rendered and up-to-the-minute.
The dinner menu’s a three-course prix fixe (£35), with several choices at each course.

A starter of tuna loin is coated in a herby, chlorophyll-green gremolata crust, cut through to contrast the dark sashimi-red of the flesh; a salad of pig’s head croquette is garnished with pale curly endive leaves, soft-cooked quail eggs and carrot strips. The main courses are more prosaic: a fillet of sea bass served on slow-cooked fennel with a light bergamot sauce, or a perfectly pink beef fillet with a parsnip purée and potato gnocchi stuffed with braised beef cheek. And if you don’t fancy a butch pudding, try the posset with a cardamom and ginger oatcake – the set cream pud is flavoured with passion fruit.

We sat near the wine station as our charming Hungarian sommelier decanted. Lighting a solitary candle each time, she held the bottles in front of the gentle glow to detect sediment as she poured. This is another old-school technique but, like so much on offer here, it’s good enough to more than make up for the Hoff blasts from the past.

Venue name: London House
Contact:
Address: 7-9 Battersea Square
London
SW11 3RA
Opening hours: Tues-Thur 6-10pm; Fri noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Sat noon-3pm, 6-10pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-9.30pm.
Transport: Tube: Clapham Junction rail or bus 19
Price: Dinner for two with wine and service: around £120
LiveReviews|2
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Treasa kirby

Fabulous decor very trendy. Staff very friendly and efficient. Food was amazing, had the scallops for starter and chicken for main course. Both were faultless in both taste and presentation. Going back again next week. It is very reasonably priced and a welcome addition to the area.