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Please note, Lucky 7 has now closed. Time Out Food editors, August 2017.
Most London restaurants calling themselves diners aren’t really diners at all: diners have a long, diverse menu. That complaint is pretty much the only one we can make about this tiny outpost of Tom Conran’s empire. The American-retro decor is a smile from floor to ceiling, with outsized, wildly kitsch figurines stealing the show. The menu is 90% breakfast, burgers and outlandishly rich desserts, plus drinks including craft beers, some cocktails and many shakes. We had one of the few salads, cobb with grilled chicken, and it was excellent: a variety of ingredients, tender, tasty chicken, exceptionally generous in portion. A cheeseburger was equally successful: flavourful beef cooked as requested, and with appetising garnishes. Fries were good, coleslaw thinly shredded and creamy. The menu also includes a few other sandwiches, hot dogs and eggy breakfast options (huevos rancheros alongside the traditional choices). The drawback is size – seating capacity is just a couple of dozen – and the no-bookings policy. So you’ll often have to queue. But with quality this high, a queue is a small sacrifice. Tom Conran understands that when you work with food this simple, you need to get 100% out of every single detail. And he succeeds.