The owners of Lupita showed some savvy when choosing Villiers Street – the narrow, crowded hill that runs between Embankment tube and Charing Cross station – as the place to set up shop.
By day, this good-looking, capable Mexican restaurant gets passing trade from tourists and office workers; by night, it’s descended on by commuters and revellers, many of whom are tipsy and hungry.
Choose carefully, and you can construct an interesting meal here. Choose drunkenly, and you can have large helpings of well-made stodge to sustain you on the journey home.
Many dishes qualify in both categories, such as the quesadillas nopales: two folded flour pancakes, stuffed with cheese and Mexican cactus.
Elsewhere, results are more mixed; had it not been for the addition of some of the excellent salsas, our carnitas – shredded barbecued pork, served on an open corn taco – would have been a tad plain.
Likewise, though fresh and satisfying, ‘guacamole artesanal’ could have done with an extra squeeze of lime (and wasn’t made at the table, as promised by the menu). The mostly Mexican staff were calm under pressure, despite the occasionally boisterous customers they have to deal with.