On a busy Camden Market Saturday, the Mango Room was not a happy place, with two large tables of disgruntled tourists and a bemused-looking Asian couple all wondering where their orders were. This was because the coolly stylish room (pink and bare-brick walls, colourful paintings, white tablecloths) was being tended by a lone waitress. She was making all the drinks too, which, given the popularity of the cocktails here, could mean a long wait – though she was coping admirably.
Food, when it arrived, looked heavenly. Salt cod fritters were light and airy, the fresh garnish and mango sauce creating a Caribbean scene in miniature. Their presentation was bettered only by the gorgeous palette of colours of Creole snapper fillet, a well-balanced dish in which the flavours of the fish were enhanced by a tangy green peppercorn sauce. Goat curry was rich yet delicate, the meat tender and, unusually, bone-free. A side of roti (the flaky Trinidad version of the Indian flatbread), for mopping up the juices, was near-perfect.
Such attention to detail comes at a cost, but it’s worth it… even the disgrunted tourists were smiling by the end of the meal.