Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley

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Restaurants and cafés

The Berkeley

Luxury

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Wed Oct 17 2012

The glass-ball screens that shield kitchen from dining room may well be a cheeky reference to the abacus and how much it costs to eat here. Still, the lunchtime set menu includes enough extra treats to feel like you’ve splashed out. True, add water, wine and service and you’ll likely spend over £70 per person, but then again, the trolley-wielding staff cosset guests to the max.

The interior of burgundy and hessian, leather and velvet, smacks of tradition, yet there are modish details: the butter knives are so trendy you’ll wonder which end to use to spread the delectable caramelised brown butter that comes with the choice of four own-made breads. An amuse-bouche of pineapple-tomato gazpacho made a delightful change from the norm, but the cherry tomatoes that arrived with our black olive-flecked burrata starter seemed more ordinaire than ‘heritage’.

Better was chargrilled bavette with girolles and oyster béarnaise: steak has never looked so pretty, and the tender juiciness of the chunks compensated for the modest portion. From the predominately French wine list (a whopping 800-plus bins), the sommelier chose Loire pinot blanc and a Fougères grenache-syrah to accompany the meal.

Then came a tour de force of sweet finishes. Panna cotta was given a sophisticated edge with bitter tonka-bean spicing and a garnish of fresh almonds, peach and apricot; even better was the combination of fresh strawberries, streusel crumbs, passion-fruit foam and dense strawberry sorbet.

Lunch ended with a choice of hunky dark chocolates and a relaxed Marcus Wareing emerging from the kitchen to chat with customers.

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Address:
Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley The Berkeley
London
SW1X 7RL

Cross Street:
Wilton Place
Phone:
020 7235 1200
Website:
www.the-berkeley.co.uk
Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat
Transport:
Tube: Hyde Park Corner or Knightsbridge tube
Price:
Set lunch £30 2 courses, £38 3 courses (£50 incl 2 glasses of wine). Set meal £80 3 courses, £98 tasting menu, £120 chef's menu
Map
1. Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley
  - The Berkeley
    London
    SW1X 7RL
  - 020 7235 1200
  - www.the-berkeley.co.uk
  - 51.502100,-0.156064

Facilities:
Eating and drinking facilities. Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away. Reservations required. Vegetarian dishes. General facilities. Private rooms
Occasions:
Business. Drinks. Wine buffs. Eating out. Celebrated chefs. Creative cooking. Fine dining. Romantic
Type of event:
Parties

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Comments & ratings

(1 rating)

Overpriced and underwhelming as a result. Service is efficient (almost brusque with a few exceptions). Food was good quality but varied from pedestrian to overly fussy with some distinctly odd flavour combinations. Highlight was the pear tart tatin providing s satisfying sugar high to end an unremarkable meal but didn't quite take the sting from the bill. Beware of ambitious recommendations from the sommelier as this is not a recession friendly wine list to begin with.

Budthecat Fri Apr 1 2011
Rated as: 3/5
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Have always been very disappointed by michelin star restaurants - but this was quite the reverse - an incredible experience. If custard tart is on the desert list you must take it - divine! I can retire from eating now. And the lunch was made extra special by Marcus' personal childcare in the kitchen when our 6 month old became grizzly. Forget the rest of the fine dining places in London and go straight here.

Dr Claw Fri Mar 12 2010
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