Marcus

  • Restaurants
  • Haute cuisine
Hyde Park
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The former restaurant 'Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley Hotel' was renovated and reopened as 'Marcus' in March 2014. The review below is for the previous restaurant.

Food & Drink Editors

Like sinking yourself into a glass of fine Bordeaux, this long-established dining room is a treat, confident in its quality and style. Deep wine tones are brightened by white linens and a circular glass motif for an ambience that is cosseting and elegantly comfortable. Meals begin with the sommelier wheeling over a trolley of champagne on ice and talking you through the various bottles offered – frankly, it’s hard to say no. Then comes a bread basket with four loaves and, on our visit, airy gougères to snack on. From that point in the meal things just got better: a heavenly pea-themed amuse-bouche with ricotta foam (not at all sudsy); the clean zingy flavours of sardine, sweetcorn, coriander and cucumber in a high-end, not-quite Asian salad; just-so roast pork with a plate-licking jus and aubergine caviar. Desserts are a strong point, and the dish described as ‘apricot, vanilla, oats’ looked like Halley’s comet streaking across the plate: a large crusted ball of two ice-cream flavours, with grilled fruit and compote sparkling in its chocolatey wake. Then superb chocolates and coffee to finish. Every menu is available with a wine-pairing option and, although the list is predominately French, the sommelier selected an Argentinian malbec to match the pork.

 

Venue name: Marcus
Contact:
Address: The Berkeley
London
SW1X 7RL
Cross street: Wilton Place
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat
Transport: Tube: Hyde Park Corner or Knightsbridge
Price: A la carte: £60 for two courses, £85 for three, £95 for four. Tasting menus from £120 for the tasting. Set lunches £30 for two courses, £28 for three.

Average User Rating

3 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:0
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  • 3 star:1
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  • 1 star:0
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Budthecat

Overpriced and underwhelming as a result. Service is efficient (almost brusque with a few exceptions). Food was good quality but varied from pedestrian to overly fussy with some distinctly odd flavour combinations. Highlight was the pear tart tatin providing s satisfying sugar high to end an unremarkable meal but didn't quite take the sting from the bill. Beware of ambitious recommendations from the sommelier as this is not a recession friendly wine list to begin with.