32 Canonbury Street
© Ming Tang-Evans / Time Out
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Mon Oct 31 2011
The Marquess has the feeling of a gastropub slowly morphing back into a boozer. The main bar in the handsome, high-ceilinged tavern was always kept as a place for drinking, but these days it’s the focus of attention, with a short wine list, several beers on tap and a selection of bottled options (including Kelpie’s Seaweed Ale from Scotland and Jever Pilsener from Germany).
The lovely dining room has off-white walls and nicely spaced wooden tables, and is much quieter, though the bar’s disco music can still be heard. The biggest change lies in the menu: gastro fare is served only on Friday and Saturday, and roasts on Sunday; from Monday to Saturday, thin-crust pizzas are available.
A two-for-one special offer bought a capricciosa (mushrooms, artichokes, black olives, cherry tomatoes, garlic cloves, prosciutto, salami) and a quattro formaggi (gorgonzola, ricotta, parmesan, buffalo mozzarella); both acceptable at £10 for two, but not worth £10 each.
Far better was a well-flavoured globe artichoke with pine nut crumble and garlic mayonnaise, followed by ribeye with grilled cherry tomatoes, salad and parsley butter cooked just-so. A side of honey- and thyme-glazed parsnips looked limp but tasted fine; chips were average. An eagerly anticipated fresh fruit salad with Mount Gay rum and apricot ripple ice-cream was a disappointment, with no alcohol apparent and gloopy fruit.
Service was charming, but then again, staff didn’t have many diners to take care of. In short, no longer a destination gastropub, but a nice spot for a drink.
Marquess Tavern 32 Canonbury Street
020 7354 2975
- Opening hours:
Open 5-11pm Mon-Thur; 4pm-midnight Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Lunch served noon-5pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6-10pm Mon-Sat; 6-8.30pm Sun
Tube: Highbury & Islington tube/rail or Essex Road rail
Main courses £8.50-£17
- 32 Canonbury Street
- 020 7354 2975
- 32 Canonbury Street
- Marquess Tavern
Internet access. Wireless (free). Restaurant and bar facilities. Function rooms. Entertainment facilities. Entertainment. General facilities. Available for hire. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
Business. Drinks. Speciality beers. Wine buffs. Going in a group. Mood
- Type of event: