© Ming Tang-Evans
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Posted: Fri Jun 14 2013
Perusing the menu at this new Hackney eatery, we weren’t sure whether it was the work of a culinary genius or a madman. Liquorice with lemon sole; sea trout with raspberries and samphire; veal tartare in Japanese broth – there’s no denying that chef Matthew Young has a penchant for fusing unexpected flavours and cuisines. But do they work?
Finished with melting blobs of vibrant red cabbage granita, the appearance of a dish of raw mackerel and radish slices was reminiscent of a lava lamp. The flavours didn’t quite live up to the looks, though, with the brassicas taking centre stage.
A ball of mozzarella served in a snowdrift of grated bottarga (salt cured, pressed fish roe) was more successful. The unusual addition of dill fronds lent a pleasing hint of aniseed to the rich combo. The rest of the meal followed this uneven pattern. Meat and fish were cooked with precision, yet many dishes had an out-of-kilter element.
There’s still a lot to like about this collaboration between Borough Wines (an off-licence down the road at number 67) and Claire Roberson of pop-up operation Shacklewell Nights. The service is warm and attentive, the aesthetic Scandi-cool, and as for the cooking? The chef clearly has skill and talent, but his hit rate with his wackier notions is too low.
Reviewed by Celia Plender
Mayfields 52 Wilton Way
- Venue phone:
020 7254 8311
- Venue website:
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-3pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 6-9.30pm Sun
Rail: London Fields or Hackney Central rail or bus D6, 48, 106, 254
Dishes £5-£14. Meal for two with drinks and service: around £75
- 52 Wilton Way
- 020 7254 8311
- 52 Wilton Way
Average User Rating
4.2 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:1
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:1
- 1 star:0
Overpriced tasty food in very small portions. I'm sure there are way better foods out there with that price.
The menu is beautifully written and the way the food is presented is astonishing. I had the mackerel dish and it was light, yet earthy yet in a sense also sweet the flavours where great. I just don't think mackerel in that way is to everyones taste. I also had the mushroom, slow egg & orange and again the flavours were just superb and what a wonderful way to use chicken mushroom. It just gave the dish an element of meatiness. The star of the night I must say was the sole with citrus butter, daikon and liquorice. When I had finished the dish I had to look around to see that no one was watching so I could actually lick the plate clean. Never, ever, never, ever have I ever brought myself to such behaviour in a restaurant. But I just could not stop myself. My FIRSTvisit to Mayfields is one I will remember for a long time and I am already planning to return in a very near future. These days it is a rarity to find a place that excites me like this in London. I urge you, please go!
Trundled in last night and nabbed a spare table. Was expecting a decent quality but nothing too out of the ordinary. However what we ate was simply awesome. Imagination, flavour and quality of cooking were top drawer - corn purée thing was the winner followed by lemon sole and beef. Really hope they keep this up as it is a total gem for hackney.
We initially stopped by for little drink, and after being pleasantly surprised by a great French staple aperitif (Picon biere), and something floral and summery for the ladies (Elderflower fizz) we were quickly tempted by the short but innovative food menu. Both the beetroot and bramble gratin with served piping hot with fresh bread and the squid, black ink and romesco and were real sensory discoveries. The service was a little hit and miss, but that did not detract from the great food and the great spot slightly in retreat from the London Fields festival crowd.