Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Budding restaurateurs take note: Medlar’s seasonal menu and wine list are close to perfection, guaranteed to pique the interest of reviewers, and, more importantly, attract a crowd. Yes, an extra vegetarian starter and main (there’s currently just one of each) wouldn’t go amiss, but otherwise read and drool: lamb’s tongue with lentil salad and mustard fruits; roast hake with summer bean ragoût and palourde clams; redcurrant sorbet with lemon madeleines; 14 globally sourced wines by the glass, carafe and bottle (from a vast list).
So, does the execution measure up? Well, mostly. Presentation is generally excellent, as is textural variation. Take, for instance, a colourful crab raviolo starter with samphire, brown shrimps and bisque sauce; or, to follow, assiette of pork (tender confit, delightfully oozing rissoles, crunchy crackling) with peas, girolles and anchovies. A moist, light raspberry and frangipane tart was pleasing too. And yet, portions are small, carbohydrates a rarity (we demanded more bread), and flavours occasionally misjudged – halibut ceviche with avocado, keta and squid had an unpleasantly sweet aftertaste.
Behind cordoned-off pavement tables and window screens that partially alleviate the King’s Road traffic, the interior is stylishly neutral in tone: all greys, greens and bare boards. Chelsea’s lunching ladies put their world to rights here, waited on by exemplary staff. Fine tuning could work wonders.
Medlar 438 King's Road
020 7349 1900
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-3pm daily. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 6.30-9.30pm Sun
Tube: Fulham Broadway tube or bus 11, 22
Set lunch (Mon-Fri) £26 3 courses; (Sat, Sun) £30 3 courses. Set dinner (Mon-Sat) £39 3 courses;(Sun) £30 3 courses
- 438 King's Road
- 020 7349 1900
- 438 King's Road
Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
- Type of event: