New Street Grill doesn’t shy away from superlatives. The restaurant’s beef is ‘the best beef available anywhere’. Other ingredients are ‘the best of British’. The wine list boasts ‘the very best reds’. And all of this in ‘the City’s oldest surviving warehouse’.
Any residual traces of imperial clatter and commotion in the former East India Company godown have been silenced by leather banquettes, heavy tablecloths and a general sense of contentment. Softly spoken and numerous staff wait on diners sitting in the warm glow of exposed light bulbs and the cool blue wash of hand-clutched BlackBerries.
It’s a slick operation, but then no less would be expected from a new D&D London venture, the restaurant group which owns, among many others, Skylon and the Blueprint Café. The menu seems aimed squarely at those in search of a deal-signing lunch or post-close-of-market dinner. It’s in the lobster, partridge, calf’s liver and bacon chop vein.
The ‘Kansas ranch, premium reserve black angus, corn fed, 40 day aged, USDA certified, 350g, Rib eye steak’, to which you can add a casual half lobster, lived up to its pedigree promise thanks to some well-handled treatment on the Josper grill – nicely browned outside and still pink within, tender and with the right level of resistance to demolition.
Perhaps the ‘New St Burger’ would have been more impressive if the competition in London wasn’t so hot right now – for £14, a seed-sprinked soft milk bun, some interesting tomato relish and a rather dense burger doesn’t cut the mustard any more. Sides include excellent triple-cooked chips in the requisite waxed paper-lined cup, gelatinous roast split bone marrow and cauliflower cheese or tomato salad.
Dining at New Street Grill certainly requires an appetite both for a steakhouse menu and an hour or two of the City lifestyle. Alternatives on the same Old Bengal Warehouse site are Fish Market, the Old Bengal Bar, and the wine bar called New Street Wine Shop.