Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
Time Out says
Tue Nov 30 1999
Less pizzeria, more all-round Italian, this former pub’s low lighting, untreated wood and leather banquettes ooze style.
By 7.45pm it was packed with smart locals: couples, friends and families of all ages.
Staff are easy-going and quick: our pizzas – from ‘one of London’s first wood-fired ovens’ (in 2002), according to the manager – arrived promptly.
The dough here is proved for two to three days, as evidenced by the well-risen (and nicely blistered) cornicione, although the generous toppings were detrimental to the buckling crusts.
The cheeses on the quattro formaggi pizza bianca became slightly monotonous and chewy once cool; a salted ricotta and chargrilled courgette topping was great on paper but ultimately overwhelming. The fior di latte on the margherita was a winner, though the paucity of basil let it down.
Worth a trip for the ambience.
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